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Cheap and Easy 4x2x1 Cage

How I do it when I'm converting a tank is to first cut the center support out. Then I cut a frame to set into the inner lip of the tank. Then I tack door trim to that frame to look decent on the front. I glue all wood point with elmers glue and then silicone the assembly to the top(now front of the aquarium). When it is laid down so the front is what was the top you nail the track to the bottom and top inner frame of the cage. The glass sits inside the track.

It does take some handtools still.

At minimum I would say

Hammer(small nail gun is better)
Miter Saw(pawn shop)
Tape measure
You still have to cut the plexi and I use my small table saw


I'm going to be building some more in the near future(again), so I will try to document the whole process because it's better to see pics of it all.

Jacob
 
(I missed these measurements they posted on the add ^^;) 48"x18"front to back x 21"tall


Thanks Jacob, that makes a bit more since. I know if I learn to do this I will use it for most of my cages for breeders and bigger projects.
 
That would be a good starting size. When you lay it down, it will be 48'' wide and 18'' deep. I keep my 9.5'' Burm in a 4 x 2 foot cage, but she will need bigger soon. I like 55 gallons for smaller stuff. You could split a 55 gallon for the BPs your getting. A layed of 55 is a 4 x 2'' so split would be a good size. You might even be able make the divider removable so you could house something larger in it in the future if needed. 55s, though, are only 12'' high when layed over, so they are too short for Burms or other large species. I keep some rattlers that way and they work out great for a larger pair. I keep a pair in the 4.5' range and they have space to spare.
 
Will the heat tape for the 30 gal still be okay to use right in the middle of the 75 gal to even between the two snakes? or does this mean I need bigger tape too?
 
If it is of proper size for a 30 gal, it's probably too small for the 75 gallon. I will send you a PM to a link where they sell Flexwatt. It comes in rolls of whatever length you buy. You cut it to length and put connectors on the end. you can also put them side by side(though not touching) for a larger coverage area. I use 3" wide and like the 6 watt per foot. I use metal foil tape from Lowes design for heating ducts for high temps. I tape the flexwat to the underneath of the tanks and then use liquid electrical tape to cover all electrical connections. It important to make sure the flexwatt in flat on the botton and never overlaps or it CAN and WILL OVERHEAT. I use two pieces of 3" flexwat approx 24" long each. I place them side by side on the back left corner of every cage. That way I aways know the cold side is on the right and know where to place the water bowl. Then I use a reostat to adjust the maximum temps. Then I place a temp probe to the hot spot of one of my cages and use a Thermostat to control that series of cages. All the cages must be the same size with the same size/specs flexwatt or one could get hotter than the others and overheat and cause a fire. Flexwatt is a great affordable alternative to the premade UTH pads assuming it is used safely.
 
So... I told the woman I would buy the aquarium and pick it up this weekend...

she sold it to someone else. She had no communication. I'm a little ticked. I'm still looking for something big enough to house 2 ball pythons. :/
 
Okay, I LOVE this idea. However, I can change out a plumbing fixture, replace electrical units and light fixtures, repair vintage telephones, but this is out of my league. I am not good with saws because I have no place to really work with them, although I asked my husband for a radial saw for Christmas, he laughed like never before. Harumph.

Sooooo, what about this? I have 2 55 gallons, one in use, neither have braces, and a 29 tall not in use either, but all have a strong metal mesh top that folds up longways. Could I attach the bottom fold to the sideways tank with a permanent glue and use my velcro closers (which are amazing, if I do say so myself) to keep the top closed but able to swing it down when I need to get in there? I can coat or cover the bottom half of the screen so no substrate gets out.

Does this make sense?
 
Okay, I LOVE this idea. However, I can change out a plumbing fixture, replace electrical units and light fixtures, repair vintage telephones, but this is out of my league. I am not good with saws because I have no place to really work with them, although I asked my husband for a radial saw for Christmas, he laughed like never before. Harumph.

Sooooo, what about this? I have 2 55 gallons, one in use, neither have braces, and a 29 tall not in use either, but all have a strong metal mesh top that folds up longways. Could I attach the bottom fold to the sideways tank with a permanent glue and use my velcro closers (which are amazing, if I do say so myself) to keep the top closed but able to swing it down when I need to get in there? I can coat or cover the bottom half of the screen so no substrate gets out.

Does this make sense?

I was just reading through this old thread and saw that I never saw this. Sorry.

I like your plan, but my only concern is as follows:

I wouldn't trust the glue. Part of what makes the sliding door design so secure is the fact that the bars and tracks are mounted INSIDE the rim of the tank, which means they can't be pushed outward. When a snake is trying to get out, it will push, and can get a good bit of force to do so. Glue may hold, but I wouldn't feel comfortable with it indefinitely. Instead, I would recommend putting some kind of bracer on the inside of the track (could be vinyl bars, or anything else) and then run a screw through the edge of the screen, through the lip of the tank, and then into the bracer. That way, the screen in permanently mounted to something inside the tank.

Hope this helps (and wasn't drastically too late to be of service) good luck.
 
Here's a quick update. I've recently modified two of these 55 gallons to become one giant 8x2x1. Removing the side panels of glass was a bit of a process (Smashed with a hammer and then carefully cut out the pieces with a razor blade) but other than that, it's a real piece of cake. I would only do this for very large snakes though (the female in the picture is 8 feet long and weighs 40 lbs) because there is likely to be a small gap between the two aquaria, so smaller snakes would likely find a way to escape. I suppose a person could take some added steps to block these up, though. Here's a picture.
 

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