KingBowser
New member
I just wanted to give huge thanks to Cheryl Marchek, who posted this in a thread a couple of months back about problem feeder ball pythons...
"Okay~ we all know I've had some recent trouble~ but I've previously had some success with problem feeders with the same trick I used on WC BPs back in 03. There are charts on my web site showing feeds and weights on some WCs I tracked in 03 here:
http://www.thereddragonsden.com/wcballs.htm
what I learned was basically they can go a REALLY LONG TIME without eating without it affecting them in any notable way (but one that feeds will just drop dead for no reason)
Anyway~ they can go a REALLY LONG TIME without eating without it affecting them in any notable way.
A trick that has worked for me:
Replace the substrate with something earthy. I like to use cypress mulch mixed with potting soil. A bit wetter than you think you want them too. Nice and moist, DARK substrate. Bury the hide in the very back of the tub in the moist substrate. So only an entrance is really available uncovered. Cover the front (or any exposed sides) of the tub so NO light gets in. Leave the snake alone in that for a few days. Then drop a live rat crawler.....not big enough to damage the snake but big enough to move around a good bit. Look for one of those really fat ones that are almost as big as a small rat but hasn't opened it eyes yet. Drop it as far from the water bowl as you can (the stupid rat will drown itself if it can). Cover the tub again so it's completely dark. Don't check for at least 12 hours. Try again next week if it doesn't work.
It's not always worked for me. But it has worked more often than not. And USUALLY they stay on feed even when I move them off the very moist substrate a couple weeks later (you can't leave them on that very moist substrate long or they will get belly rot)"
I have had a super pastel male that has been on strike for several months now. I tried this very method and dropped in two mice today, which he ate with gusto. I highly recommend trying this! Thanks again for the info, Cheryl.
Matt
"Okay~ we all know I've had some recent trouble~ but I've previously had some success with problem feeders with the same trick I used on WC BPs back in 03. There are charts on my web site showing feeds and weights on some WCs I tracked in 03 here:
http://www.thereddragonsden.com/wcballs.htm
what I learned was basically they can go a REALLY LONG TIME without eating without it affecting them in any notable way (but one that feeds will just drop dead for no reason)
Anyway~ they can go a REALLY LONG TIME without eating without it affecting them in any notable way.
A trick that has worked for me:
Replace the substrate with something earthy. I like to use cypress mulch mixed with potting soil. A bit wetter than you think you want them too. Nice and moist, DARK substrate. Bury the hide in the very back of the tub in the moist substrate. So only an entrance is really available uncovered. Cover the front (or any exposed sides) of the tub so NO light gets in. Leave the snake alone in that for a few days. Then drop a live rat crawler.....not big enough to damage the snake but big enough to move around a good bit. Look for one of those really fat ones that are almost as big as a small rat but hasn't opened it eyes yet. Drop it as far from the water bowl as you can (the stupid rat will drown itself if it can). Cover the tub again so it's completely dark. Don't check for at least 12 hours. Try again next week if it doesn't work.
It's not always worked for me. But it has worked more often than not. And USUALLY they stay on feed even when I move them off the very moist substrate a couple weeks later (you can't leave them on that very moist substrate long or they will get belly rot)"
I have had a super pastel male that has been on strike for several months now. I tried this very method and dropped in two mice today, which he ate with gusto. I highly recommend trying this! Thanks again for the info, Cheryl.
Matt
