Continued problems...sort of...

[zero3803]

I had issues back when I purchased my ball from rcreptiles in october. She wouldn't eat for over a month, and her first shed occured days after arriving. The skin came off in flakes, but eventually most fell off weeks later with the exception of one eye cap. She now eats great, one medium-large mouse every week, but I'm having another problem with her second shed. The humidity in the tank was on a gradient from ~35% warm side to 55% cooler side. I kept plastic over about 75% of the tank to keep the humidity constant. It remained at these levels as she began her second shed cycle. Now nearly 2 weeks later, it has once again flaked off, and both eye caps are back..presumably one containing the retained cap from shed 1. She wasn't fed or disturbed during the time up until shed 2, and remained isolated in her hide. Shes still eating great, but I'm not sure what to do at this point. I assume she needs a vet visit to deal with these eyecaps, but I have to figure out whats going wrong with the sheds. Now that it's cold out, her humidity has dropped to around 45% cool side. I'd thought about an automated mister, but I'm not sure about that.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Melinda]

I have problems in the winter with keeping the humidity up. When one of mine don't shed all the way, I squirt the bedding and snake down to get the humidity up so the stuck shed can come off. It's a good idea to do this when they are blue to help them shed out completely. You can put a drop of oil on her eyes to help loosen the eye caps. If your sure it is stuck eye cap, you can gently remove them yourself. You'll need to learn how to do it anyway, as this won't be the first time it will need to be done.

 

[Matt2979]

I also have problems with my humidity levels during the winter. Heat, from both the furnace and my supplemental room heater, dry the air out a LOT. Despite keeping good humidity levels in my tubs, I have been having lots of shedding problems lately.

My solution is to soak my snakes for about 10-15 minutes and then remove any stuck shed. Be sure to get ALL of it. Skin problems can occur if you don't. If you don't remove the eye caps, an eye infection can occur. If there is a lot of stuck shed on your snakes face, hold it firmly b the neck (careful not to hurt the animal, of course) and use light pressure to keep it's mouth closed while you get the shed started at the edge of it's mouth (I would say "lips", but...lol). The sooner you do this after it shed (as much as it could on it's own), the easier it will come off.

If you've never done this before, it's easy to expect to be bitten. I have done this several dozen times and never been bitten, nor even snapped at....and I have several mean snakes that I've had to do this with. I would say that they seem to know that you're helping them, but I'm afraid that might be giving them too much credit for their amount of brain power.

 

[Amelanistic Orca]

I dump water dishes right over hides on heat spots almost twice a week.. Contrary to most beliefs; I keep my bp's more moist than I have GTP's?? Go figure.. It helps immensely.. Hot and humid is a motto here?? Fer what it's worth.. And; make a cozy spot next to your bath tub; run real warm water, sit with your snake there for an hour at times and rub in circles; they will come off; and they need to asap.. No need for vet visit.. With your description of the flaking; moisten that snake heavily for a while..

 

[gsrept]

i would soak snake in tepid water for a few hours it will come all come off including the retained eye caps

 

[deborahbroadus]

Personally, if I were a tank owner having shed issues, I would let the snake live in a tub during the winter to reduce the stress all these series of bad sheds, and having to handle them to remove the shed would cause.

If I had to assist a BP with a shed, after my first experience following the "use oil" advice that I followed as a newbie, I couldn't advise anyone to put oil anywhere on a snake for sheds even the eyes; water works fine for all aspects of helping with the shed.

 

[snakesRkewl]

Sterilite tub with lid
1 to 1 1/2 inches of 85 degree water
Towel in bottom ~ I also add a half log hide to rub against.

30 minute soak and if the snake needs more soak time then replace with more 85 degree water for another 30 minutes.

The shed should slide right off and the eye caps unless multiple layers are stuck should come off on their own.

 

[deborahbroadus]

Sterilite tub with lid
1 to 1 1/2 inches of 85 degree water
Towel in bottom ~ I also add a half log hide to rub against.

30 minute soak and if the snake needs more soak time then replace with more 85 degree water for another 30 minutes.

The shed should slide right off and the eye caps unless multiple layers are stuck should come off on their own.

Good advice!

 

[E.Shell]

A misting (who soaks their face) during a warm soak, followed by a very gentle rub with a warm damp washcloth can get a lot of it.

 

[bradleymoore]

i've had 30% humidity and no shed problems.

 

[deborahbroadus]

i've had 30% humidity and no shed problems.

That may be true for you, but too much evidence points to humidity being a factor in bad sheds for it to be discounted.

Why not post a picture of your set ups? It may help others to see which kind of tank set up could prevent this sort of thing happening?

 

[snakesRkewl]

Strangely anything under 50% humidity gives me tattered sheds

 

[bradleymoore]

ok, just a sec. i'll try and find one that looks somewhat clean since today is cleaning day. haha

 

[bradleymoore]

quick iphone pic. pretty standard setup, i think. the room is kept right around 78-80 degrees.

 

[Bob O'Brien]

I spray down any snake that is in the shed cycle once a day until it shed and always have complete sheds.

 

[gsrept]

sure pic the one with the nice pastel genetic stripe, very nice. just use water and forget all the other stuff no need for oil

 

[deborahbroadus]

I spray down any snake that is in the shed cycle once a day until it shed and always have complete sheds.

You've got tubs, Bob. My own experience shows me that tubs are not UNIFORMLY humid. Some spots can have higher humidity, and your snakes may also soak or tip their bowls when you aren't watching (some of mine do).

The OP and others suffering from bad sheds in their BPS are usually housed in tanks with screen tops. These kind of housing environments usually are uniformly dry except in humid hides placed over hot spots.

BTW: That is a NICE snake!!! Really NIIIICE!

 

[bradleymoore]

sure pic the one with the nice pastel genetic stripe, very nice. just use water and forget all the other stuff no need for oil

take your choice then. it wasn't meant for the snake.. it was meant for the setup. i was asked for it, so i posted it.

edit: maybe i took your response wrong. haha

 

[darkbloodwyvern]

Heat pad, tupperware type lidded snaketub and a warm,damp pillowcase. Set

 

[darkbloodwyvern]

(soo sorry, hit post before i was done.)

Set up the pad and tub so the snake stays warm. I put a hide in there and let them get settled under it and drapes the pillowcase over it, covering the entrance. The fabric doesn't have to be wet. It's basically a snake sauna. Some people tie the snake up inside the case, but i like to let them roam if they feel like it. When they have been in there over 30mins, you can usually wipe their face gently with a qtip or finger! Be gentle and don't force it, you can always put them back in to the sauna longer. I don't leave them in there more than an hour or two and only for REALLY bad sheds. Usually a half hr is just fine.