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Creating a care sheet for ball pythons.

Bill & Amy

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I am trying to create a care sheet for ball pythons to post as a sticky for new owners. Please read and make any suggestions you think are necessary. This is a first draft so please be kind.

Common Name: Ball Python or Royal Python

Latin name: Python regius

Native to: Central and Western Africa

Size: Adult ball pythons average in size from three to five feet and are known to reach 6 feet in the wild.

Life span: Ball pythons are one of the longest-lived snakes. It is not unusual for these pythons to live 20 - 30 years in captivity. One specimen lived for 47 years at the Philadelphia Zoo.

Selecting Your Ball Python: Choose an animal that has clear firm skin, rounded body shape, clean vent, clear eyes, and who actively flicks its tongue around when handled. All ball pythons are naturally shy about having their heads touched or handled by strangers. The snake should grip you gently but firmly when moving around. It should be alert to its surroundings.

Captive Bred is Best: Ball pythons are somewhat notorious for refusing to feed, but many believe that is a much larger problem with wild caught specimens Wild caught snakes tend to be very stressed from capture and transport and often harbor parasites. Captive bred snakes tend to be more expensive, but they are well worth the extra cost.

Snake Health: If you already have a constricting snake at home, any new python (or boa) should be quarantined due to the risk of inclusion body disease. Experts vary on the length of quarantine, but 3-6 months is not extreme. A vet check should be provided, especially for internal (take a recent stool sample) and external parasites.

Enclosure: Remember that all snakes are escape artists and when designing an enclosure it is of the utmost importance that whatever enclosure is used is made as escape-proof as possible. Generally an adult ball python should be kept is a 30-gallon sized enclosure (12 inches x 36 inches) or equivalent sized tub or cage.

Substrate: Newspaper makes excellent substrate even though it is not very attractive. It is easy to clean and is excellent to use when acclimating new ball pythons to their enclosure. Wood shavings can also be used, though cedar should never be used and some pine can also cause health problems as well. Aspen shavings are usually an excellent choice if using wood shavings. If keeping the snake on wood shavings, care should be taken when feeding the snake to avoid shavings becoming lodged in the snake's mouth.

Temperature: Daytime ambient temperatures should be maintained at 80° - 85° F with a basking temperature of 90° - 95° F. Nighttime ambient temperatures can be 75° - 80° F, but the basking temperatures should be maintained.

Lighting: There is no need for special lighting. Usually whatever natural light enters the room is adequate.

Heating: When providing heat, do not use hot rocks. Hot rocks are notoriously unpredictable and can cause serious burn injuries to your animal. Under the tank heating pads can also be used to help raise the ambient temperature of the enclosure or provide a basking temperature. It is recommended to routinely check the temperatures of the enclosure with thermometers. The heating sources should be controlled by a thermostat, rheostat or dimmer switch. Thermostats are not required, but highly recommended.

Humidity: A 50-60% humidity level seems to work well for ball pythons.

Diet: Hatchlings can be started off feeding on fuzzy mice or pinky rats. Juveniles and adults can gradually take larger prey of adult mice or a variety of rats sizes. Typical feeding schedule is usually every 7 days. The size of the prey is usually equal to the girth of the snake in question.

Maintenance: Fresh water should be maintained. Newspaper is easily replaced when soiled. Wood shavings should be spot cleaned as needed. Periodically, the enclosure should be disinfected. A 5% bleach solution or chlorhexidine solution makes an excellent disinfectant. As always, be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after handling your ball python or any cage accessories.
 
Just some thought:

How about including scientific classification info?

ORDER: Squamata
FAMILY: Boidae
GENUS: Python
SPECIES: regius



Maintenance:
As far as cleaning goes - I think it should be mentioned that a diluted 2% chlorhexidine solution should be used. Also that when using bleach solution - thorough rinsing is required as well as time for the enclosure to "air out".

I'd also consider adding a section on Temperament.


Enclosure:

Add information on the importance of using hides to provide security for the animal.
 
Looks good..think you've got it covered. Maybe in "Selecting Your Ball Python", perhaps mention to be on the lookout for mites etc. I dont think a lot of people honestly think about that when they buy a snake for the first time.
 
There should not be a night time temperature drop in maintaining a ball python unless it is being cycled for breeding. AND many breeders no longer do temperature drops for breeding either, just sustained changes to light cycle. Light cycle in ball pythons or photo period length if you prefer, is essential to stimulate breeding regardless of temp drop or not.
 
Updated version!!!

Order: Squamata

Family: Boidae

Genus:Python

Species: Regius

Common Name: Ball Python or Royal Python

Latin name: Python regius

Native to: Central and Western Africa

Size: Adult ball pythons average in size from three to five feet and are known to reach 6 feet in the wild.

Life span: Ball pythons are one of the longest-lived snakes. It is not unusual for these pythons to live 20 - 30 years in captivity. One specimen lived for 47 years at the Philadelphia Zoo.

Selecting Your Ball Python: Choose an animal that has clear firm skin, rounded body shape, clean vent, clear eyes, and who actively flicks its tongue around when handled. Also check for external parasites (mites and ticks). All ball pythons are naturally shy about having their heads touched or handled by strangers. The snake should grip you gently but firmly when moving around. It should be alert to its surroundings.

Captive Bred is Best: Ball pythons are somewhat notorious for refusing to feed, but many believe that is a much larger problem with wild caught specimens Wild caught snakes tend to be very stressed from capture and transport and often harbor parasites. Captive bred snakes tend to be more expensive, but they are well worth the extra cost.

Snake Health: If you already have a constricting snake at home, any new python (or boa) should be quarantined due to the risk of inclusion body disease. Experts vary on the length of quarantine, but 3-6 months is not extreme. A vet check should be provided, especially for internal (take a recent stool sample) and external parasites.

Temperament: The Ball Python is generally well-mannered, and will seldom bite, instead, if threatened, it rolls itself into a ball (hence the name Ball Python) with the head buried beneath the folds of its body.

Enclosure: Remember that all snakes are escape artists and when designing an enclosure it is of the utmost importance that whatever enclosure is used is made as escape-proof as possible. Generally an adult ball python should be kept is a 30-gallon sized enclosure (12 inches x 36 inches) or equivalent sized tub or cage. It is also a good idea to provide your ball python with a couple of hides, one on the warm side and one on the cool. This will provide them with a feeling of security.

Substrate: Newspaper makes excellent substrate even though it is not very attractive. It is easy to clean and is excellent to use when acclimating new ball pythons to their enclosure. Wood shavings can also be used, though cedar should never be used and some pine can also cause health problems as well. Aspen shavings are usually an excellent choice if using wood shavings. If keeping the snake on wood shavings, care should be taken when feeding the snake to avoid shavings becoming lodged in the snake's mouth.

Temperature: Ambient temperatures should be maintained at 80° - 85° F with a basking temperature of 90° - 95° F. Nighttime drops should only be used when breeding and many breeders don’t use them anymore.

Lighting: There is no need for special lighting. Usually whatever natural light enters the room is adequate, unless you are cycling your animals for breeding. Changes in the photoperiod (shorter days) will stimulate breeding more than nighttime drops.

Heating: When providing heat, do not use hot rocks. Hot rocks are notoriously unpredictable and can cause serious burn injuries to your animal. Under the tank heating pads can also be used to help raise the ambient temperature of the enclosure or provide a basking temperature. It is recommended to routinely check the temperatures of the enclosure with thermometers. The heating sources should be controlled by a thermostat, rheostat or dimmer switch. Thermostats are not required, but highly recommended.

Humidity: A 50-60% humidity level seems to work well for ball pythons.

Diet: Hatchlings can be started off feeding on fuzzy mice or pinky rats. Juveniles and adults can gradually take larger prey of adult mice or a variety of rats sizes. Typical feeding schedule is usually every 7 days. The size of the prey is usually equal to the girth of the snake in question.

Maintenance: Fresh water should be maintained. Newspaper is easily replaced when soiled. Wood shavings should be spot cleaned as needed. Periodically, the enclosure should be disinfected. A 5% bleach solution or 2 % chlorhexidine solution makes an excellent disinfectant. When using the bleach solution, the cage should be thoroughly rinsed and allowed to dry. As always, be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after handling your ball python or any cage accessories.
 
Last edited:
Locality

We usually go real specific on origin. Maybe list the countries also add shame snake, that is what it is called in Africa because it balls up when it is frightened.
 
Any other suggestions before I post this and make it a sticky? :)
 
no expert butt..................

as for feeding, adults can last a while without eating........ ive heard some people say that you should feed them like once every 2 weeks. but if you go out of town for a while(lets say 3 weeks) and the person taking car if your snake refused to feed it (or you just dont trust him lol) they would be fine , but alll you need is fresh water and all that other stuff.




also, maby it would be nice to add some handiling info in there. and like what to do if it bites you and holds on (warm/hot water, achohol)




and some sheding info.............. with stuff on eye cap things, and stuff





like i said in the title of this post..... im no expert and im definatly not the best balll python wizzz here but........i do a lot of research lol
 
I would request a section on "your new snake" or something that explains how you should let a snake get used to its new home for a week before handling or feeding it, and making sure the cage is someplace quiet and not highly trafficed so the animal can feel safe and becomes willing to explore more readily, and that snakes/reptiles do not mix well with cats/dogs other pets.

It sounds really good, though! thanks for compiling such a convienent sheet!
 
i think this is going to stop a lot of new owners posting so include everything you are tired of reading. Including shedding and possibly misting the tank to increase humidity. talk about little things that can be done to raise the temp such as a blaknet/towel/plexiglass on top of a screen-top enclosure. ALMOST ALL OF THE PEOPLE READING THIS WILL GET THEIR SNAKE FROM A PET STORE. for feeding i would say "a possible feeding schedule is...." or maybe say 7-10 days so people dont freak when their snake doesnt eat once a week.
 
The care sheet was not made to rid us of questions, there are plenty of people here that will gladly answer those questions. I mainly added this care sheet to give the most basic of care to a new ball python owner, I believe any answers beyond what we already addressed have multiple answers depending on the setup each individual may have. To try to cover all of the bases would cause the basic pertinent information to get lost. :)
 
heh

don't want to make forum totally obsolete by replacing it with the ultimate care sheet.. I'm sure plenty of people here love helping newbies, they would not post if they didn't!

plus i know some people like confirmation that a care sheet is indeed accurate, or resolve conflicting information they may see on another website...
 
Bills right..every situtation (tank size, tank type, heating, etc) is different, so to try cover all scenarios would be impossible.

To add in a lot of the other stuff will turn this caresheet into an essay on keeping ball pythons. When I look for caresheets, I want the important facts - concise and clear. Any other questions I have I'll ask around. I believe much more in interaction with members of the forum than reading a page on a website. Everyone has such different experiences..and I think I get a lot out of that.

Great job on the caresheet bill..one of the nicest I've seen :thumbsup:
 
May I print the care sheet that is posted in the sticky at the top of the forum to give to new and potential buyers? I would be sure to print credit for the care sheet to Faunaclassifieds on the sheet I give out.

If the answer is no~ thanks anyway I appreciate your time just the same~

If the answer is yes~

May I add to the sheet specifics I would like my new customers to know about? Mostly things as discussed in this thread~ about shedding cycles, adults going off feed, and acclimating a new acquisition?

Anyone have a cornsnake care sheet I can use? Don't see any point in re-inventing the wheel and writing up new sheets when there are so many out there already. Again I may want to customize it a bit as described above, but I would of course give credit as to origin on any care sheet I used.

Thanks!
 
Cheryl Marchek AKA JM said:
May I print the care sheet that is posted in the sticky at the top of the forum to give to new and potential buyers? I would be sure to print credit for the care sheet to Faunaclassifieds on the sheet I give out.

If the answer is no~ thanks anyway I appreciate your time just the same~

If the answer is yes~

May I add to the sheet specifics I would like my new customers to know about? Mostly things as discussed in this thread~ about shedding cycles, adults going off feed, and acclimating a new acquisition?

Anyone have a cornsnake care sheet I can use? Don't see any point in re-inventing the wheel and writing up new sheets when there are so many out there already. Again I may want to customize it a bit as described above, but I would of course give credit as to origin on any care sheet I used.

Thanks!


Sure!!! Anyone that would like to use it may do so. :thumbsup:
 
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