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false water cobra bites

PJ FF

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Hello, Ill be purchasing a false water cobra as soon as I get the temps and humidity right. All I need to know now is what does humidity need to be at and what kind of medical treatment is needed for a bite from them?
 
Ok sir, thank you for caring but I DO have experience with rattle snakes. I help my dads friend at his work where he trains dogs to stay away from rattle snakes. But what are you say until im succsesful with my corn and ball? i dont understand that part? but can I please just get an answer with the main point of this by some one?
 
Alicia is not much of the "sir" kind of gender.
 
youre also 14 and living with your parents. Teaching dogs to stay away from rattlers is NOT experience with rattlers on a daily basis. ( IE KEEPING THEM)

Also, im in no way a "Sir" if you look at the user profiles next to my post youd see im a female and also 20 . I do not recommend you keep a "hot" snake of any form until you are successful at keeping multiple animals at a time, and have real experience with these "hot" reptiles with somone qualified. these animals are in no way for beginners no matter what you read online. if you want a tough to handle snake why not get a Green Tree Python. or something your parents would approve of?
 
Please do alot more real research on this animal before you aquire one. It appears that you are not even aware of the basic needs of this species. Also, check the local regulations on keeping hots in your area. Especially by an underage person.
Assisting in the training of dogs to "avoid" snakes is a world away of actually handleing
a hot snake. You will require special caging, and handleing equipment.
By all means research, very very carefully before getting this animal.
 
Ok, well im gonna take all this info in concederation and also take it as in your looking out for my saftey. Now weather you are or not, thats your choice but im sorry for calling you sir Alicia. So is it atleast possible to get those questions answerd?
 
Humidity-some keep them in the 80% range, though I think that is a bit excessive, I would say a FWC needs at least 60%.

Medical treatment-Okay, the FWC venom is as toxic as the Timber Rattlesnake, keep this in mind. A FWC usually bites with their front teeth, unless they fear for their lives or are going for food. They will open their mouth wider and bite down with their rear fangs and chew. At this point you WILL need medical attention. I have read some have lost permanent feeling in their fingers and even some have lost the ability to use their arm from a FWC bite.

FWC are extremely aggressive when food is around, they are very flighty when they are hatched and their only means of defense is bitting. What may seem like a placid and nice snake at first can quickly turn on you and bite like crazy. I have seen this first hand. Remember THEY ARE VENOMOUS!

You may have experience with a ball pythonand a corn snake, until you have really experienced an aggressive snake and kept it for a long period of time, then study the problems with keeping "hots". In fact, start out with a wc blood python, Burmese python, Suriname boa, reticulated python, or green tree python. Experience one of them being aggressive, then add the dangers of losing the use of your hand from a venomous bite. Safety first my friend. Please be careful.
 
thank you SOOOO much for answering. But arent burms EXTREMLY docile. thats what every one says on ball-pythons.net???
 
Note that Michael said "WC" - he means, try buying a wild-caught specimen of ANY of those species, and see if you can deal with its aggression first. A captive born burmese can be very tame, but any wild caught animal tends to be very unpredictable, and these species won't cost you, literally, an arm or a leg if they freak out and bite you, but could provide valuable lessons for how to read a snake and avoid bites before you get into venomous.
 
ok, thank you very much for clearing that up for me. And also thanks for all the help. I had a hell of a time trying to find people that knew what the hell they were talking about. Thanks
 
I would suggest keeping an eastern coachwhip before keeping any venomous snake. It will certainly teach you to be careful when handling as not to get bit.
 
I have two captive bred burmese pythons, one(albino) is the meanest thing I have ever met, the other(normal) is as nice as they come, but that is after dealing with her temper for a while.

Try working with a green tree python, they have quite the temper, even the captive bred.
 
Like what Archimedes Artifex said coachwhip would be your best. In AZ there are Red coachwhip's all over out there. So instead of spending 300.00 to 500.00 on a green tree python you could just go out and catch a red coachwhip. And any coachwhips are very good for traning for venomous. They are very quick stricking snakes. Just be carefuly.

Thanks, Josh
 
Hey guys, I thought I might throw in my 2 cents. I agree with training with a coachwhip, they are notoriously mean. I just would like to add that since he is in Arizona, to also try large Gopher snakes. I live in Kansas at the moment and about half the Bullsnakes I have found have been VERY Mean and testy. He can easily find a gopher snake or coachwhip out there. Now, I have also heard that the True Red Coachwhips are not as mean as the easterns or westerns. I caught one last year in west Texas that was and still is dog tame. It is a red phased western though. I just have noticed that bullsnakes, and yellow-bellied racers around here are VERY testy. Just another easy find in Arizona. Later all. :cool:
 
extreme_bci said:
Like what Archimedes Artifex said coachwhip would be your best. In AZ there are Red coachwhip's all over out there. So instead of spending 300.00 to 500.00 on a green tree python you could just go out and catch a red coachwhip. And any coachwhips are very good for traning for venomous. They are very quick stricking snakes. Just be carefuly.

Thanks, Josh
Yes. Coachwhip (red racer) would be a good practice animal. They love to bite, and as mentioned they are quick, and most all that I've ever caught bite, and bite, and bite, then after they "calm down" they bite some more :rofl:
 
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