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Helping a friend

D

DogStar5988

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Ok so I admit I know little to knowthing about Ball Pythons, but thats ok because I don't have one (I'm a cornsnake guy). However my friend has two and is pretty much breaking all the rules as far as I know. She has one that is eating perfectly and never refuses and one that is more picky. And the picky one is going on a month without eating. I know that it isn't uncommon for ball pythons to do this but she is worried, and I can only give her advice as if it were a cornsnake. Here is the setup she has:
1. tall octagon tank (not a lot of floor space)
2. Two ball pythons in same tank.
3. unregulated heat mat
4. feeding live (mice)
So besides the obvious husbandry and feeding risks (which believe me I have mentioned many times) what tricks are there for getting them to eat live?
p.s don't worry I expect some flameage :flamethr:
 
Having 2 animals in the same tank, and an unregulated heat mat is enough said right there. The animal that is actually eating is probably the one that is hogging whatever area is closest to the proper temps, and the other animal is too stressed out to eat. If that one can't get access to an area that is warm enough (nor too hot), even if it does eat, it will not be able to digest its food properly.

Feeding live is a choice some make, and if done properly, is not a dangerous practice as such, though I wouldn't count on that being done properly in this situation either, if she cannot even attempt to get the husbandry correct. Some animals simply will not eat live, just as some just will not eat f/t.

The animals need to be separated, and BOTH set up properly.
 
Cat_72 said:
The animals need to be separated, and BOTH set up properly.
Click to expand...
:iagree:

If she is going to house them together, which she shouldn't do, she at least needs to separate them at feeding time. Also they definitely need their heat regulated. I have one female that will eat F/T one week but will only take live the next week. They all have their own quirks but without the proper heat none of them will eat right.

Maybe you should have your friend read some of the posts on this forum, there are a lot of experienced herpers on here that she could learn from.

I do not understand why people get a snake and then refuse to keep them as they need to be kept :hot:.
 
Agree on all points

tanyah625 said:
:iagree:

If she is going to house them together, which she shouldn't do, she at least needs to separate them at feeding time. Also they definitely need their heat regulated. I have one female that will eat F/T one week but will only take live the next week. They all have their own quirks but without the proper heat none of them will eat right.

Maybe you should have your friend read some of the posts on this forum, there are a lot of experienced herpers on here that she could learn from.

I do not understand why people get a snake and then refuse to keep them as they need to be kept :hot:.
Click to expand...

Snakes will and can kill each other via competition. Other methods besides PROPER CARE included varying the size and typre of prey (rats, mices, hampsters, F/T versus live or prekilled) However, i suspect if she separates them both gives them BOTH proper heating and adaquate room, AND has a vet check them for parasites, I would imagine after a spell the non-eater will be happy to eat. She needs to separate them immediately and give them both a week off -no holding, just clean out the cage and put them back in, leave them along for a week, then try to feed them. If they don't eat, send a fecal sample to the vet's and try different foods.

thanks for caring more about her pets than she does, apparently... You don't have to be a python person to know those conditions are all wrong. hope you can help them out...
 
It's not uncommon for one the thrive at the expense of the other. As said separate, now!

Floorspace for EACH should be 1/2 the length of the snake by 1/4. She should heat 1/3 of the area with UTH on a T-sat (or dimmer at least), set this temp at 90-94F. It's not like she has to break the bank to do this a few 32q rectangle sterilite tubs with secure lids and a few holes drilled will work fine for her snakes.

That octagon tank is great for fish but won't do for BPs.
 
this is good setup. cheap too

NorthernRegius.com said:
It's not uncommon for one the thrive at the expense of the other. As said separate, now!

Floorspace for EACH should be 1/2 the length of the snake by 1/4. She should heat 1/3 of the area with UTH on a T-sat (or dimmer at least), set this temp at 90-94F. It's not like she has to break the bank to do this a few 32q rectangle sterilite tubs with secure lids and a few holes drilled will work fine for her snakes.

That octagon tank is great for fish but won't do for BPs.
Click to expand...

One of my friends has her smaller boas like this, it's really cheap and super easy to clean, and you just get a deeper opaque tupperware to feed them all in, works like a charm. the most expensive part is the dimmers, and zoomed or some company has some for $27, if you need any links to products I can look them up. They aren't what i will be using long-term, but they are good alternatives to more expensive stuff, especially if she isn't (please god) planning on ever breeding. If she is, she REALLY needs to rethink her priorities. If she can't afford good cheap housing she needs to not have pets.
Again, thank you for your concern for their welfare.
 
Well I bought her the thermostat and hooked it up. Also gave her some tips on keeping the tank humid because the humidity was at around 23%! and one of them had shed and it was all in pieces. I am going to the pet store and am going to get a frozen adult mouse for her to try (cutting, braining, etc.) for the one that wont eat. Looks like she will be able to separate them soon. :) thanks for your replies ;)
 
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