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how can i help my boa

The BoidSmith said:
Steven,
Remove any cheese-like tissue with the swab and then apply the solution. Hydrogen peroxide also works well as a cleansing solution. Increase the temperature of the enclosure.
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Just as an FYI to all - while hydrogen peroxide was at one time recommended in the treatment of infectious stomatitis (it really DOES do a great job at cleaning out the affected area), it has somewhat fallen out of favor due to the fact that it disrupts healthy tissue at the site and extends treatment/healing time. The shift has been toward "less active" cleaning agents and site irrigation. (Dan just showed us all that he has been doing this for awhile, lol...and honestly, I treated a snake with it myself about a year ago - then found out it was no longer the way to do it.)
 
Since Mike is not willing to answer this question, can you type in here what the veterinary report states? Were you ever provided with a Fedex tracking #? Do you still have it?

Thanks.
 
(Dan just showed us all that he has been doing this for awhile, lol...and honestly, I treated a snake with it myself about a year ago - then found out it was no longer the way to do it.)
Click to expand...

Well…I guess that’s true. Just to give you an idea my reference is still Dr. Frye, and in all honesty I have yet to find something better!  But I’m always willing to learn. What’s the new suggestion for cleansing solutions?

Regards.
 
he used dhl and here is the racking #28596822052.the vet report says that he was treated for a physical examination and a cytology a 0.20 amiglyde v.1 and the c.e.t oral hygiene rinse.all to geather it came to 100.60 and he goes back again tomarrow for another shot and friday he goes back for another examination.
 
one more thing i noticed after treated him again is that the bottom of his stomach is milky looking.like white is this normal or is he going into shed.i will get a pic tonight.
 
You can get the proper tool for holding the mouth of your boa open HERE
It's called a speculum (sp) about half way down the page. they are made of a soft plastic material.

Not dissing yer Q-tip. That's much better than things I've seen some people use before. LOL

Hope your boa does better. :)


Ciao,
Rick
 
The BoidSmith said:
Well…I guess that’s true. Just to give you an idea my reference is still Dr. Frye, and in all honesty I have yet to find something better!  But I’m always willing to learn. What’s the new suggestion for cleansing solutions?
Regards.
Click to expand...
I have to be honest - I'm sure that when I asked my vet she told me a few options, but I don't recall. I do know that there are many that support swabbing with chlorhexidine or betadine. I don't mean to dispute what anybody's vet tells them, but I prefer something of a minimalist approach. I disagree with stressing the animal 2-3 times daily, and, since stomatitis is generally a secondary issue, I want to know what the primary is. Obviously, raising the temperature is the first step, then I clean the area (swab out any caseous matter, and depending on how extensive I will still use H2O2). I generally base followup upon what I see the first time, but typically will recheck in 2 days and repeat the process. My rationale is based solely on the amount of stress put on the animal (holding firmly, prying open the mouth, keeping it open, swabbing out the area, etc) and the idea that tissue will take longer to heal if you keep renewing the injury.
 
so do you think i should only use the mouth wash once a day.i was just doing what my vet Dr.Donald O. Loden was saying i should do.i did raise the temps and lower the humidity to high day 102 and cool day is 85.at night hot is 85-90 and night cool is 80-85.if i need to get the temps up higher or lower please let me know cuz i dont want the wrong temps in his cage.
 
In my first post, I stated that I would explain my feelings on the subject when you were done treating. In my last, I explained those feelings, prefaced by the statement that I do not want to dispute what anyone's vet tells them. I have not seen your snake. I know only what you have stated on this forum. What I said about treatment was strictly MY opinion and how I do things based on those opinions and my experiences. I am not recommending that you alter, or stray from, the plan of care your vet has instructed you to follow. I haven't done much with RTB's over the years (though I do have a few now), so I don't have much experience to guide me regarding their temperature tolerances - but MY feeling is that your daytime high temperatures are a bit extreme. 92-95` is sufficient, IMO, to stimulate the immune system/response (I use a high of about 88 with mine, normally), but if that high is what is required to maintain the overall cage temps at your desired range - so be it...they can move away if it is too hot. (if you find it constantly on the 'cool' side, you might want to consider adjusting temps a bit) If another member has other input, I would happily yield to their experience.
 
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crotalusadamanteus said:
You can get the proper tool for holding the mouth of your boa open HERE
It's called a speculum (sp) about half way down the page. they are made of a soft plastic material.

Not dissing yer Q-tip. That's much better than things I've seen some people use before. LOL
Click to expand...

No offense here. Thanks for the link, I actually did not know those were made, I am going to get a couple to try out, thanks. I had a friend who would use a butter knife to open his snake's mouth, according to him every time a tooth would fall out it was because of the mouth rot(had nothing to do with the butter knife(no matter how hard I tried to reason with him)).

Steven,
Your temps are good, do not go higher, if you do you will see your boa upside down. As Harold said, your snake will sit where is best for him and you can then adjust the temps properly. If your boa is that milky white all around than it sounds like he is getting ready to shed, watch his eyes, if they cloud over than you will know for sure. Good luck and keep us posted on your snake.
 
If I were you I would follow your vet's suggestions. He is the one you will have to report to if the condition does not improve. He will have to know what's working and what's not. Luckily, my experience in dealing with infectious stomatitis is very limited. But I'm in agreement with Michael, as long as you provide a temperature gradient for her to thermoregulate she should be fine.
 
I totally agree with Dan and Harold...........That's why I have not input on this very much. You need to stick to the regimen laid out by the treating vet. He should know ALL the facts, and kept updated, on any changes, since He will be the one treating your boa.
Just my $0.025

Micheal, let me know how you like the speculums. Just found that site recently.

Ciao,
Rick
 
i just read a part of mikes thread he started.seeing how i cant post on there i will just say why would i email him that the snake he sent me was sick when it wasnt.he said how does he know that his is the one that is sick.i have some pics of him and i scaned the vet bill so i can show you guys.i was going to try get a pic of the mouthrot but i cant hold his mouth open and take the pic so i will try that the next time i treat him.here are some pics and i know he know this is the boa you can even go to it on the fauna classifieds and see it there.im not sure where it is but its on there its past page 12 i know that.
 

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heres the vet report.my scanner seems to be broke cuz theres a black line through it but its the bill.
 

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Steven, I am trying to understand your last post, it was pretty joggled around. Are you saying you never told Michael that the snake was sick? If this sick snake is not the same boa he sent you, why did you send him the vet bill for this snake?
 
That boa is very skinny. Do you have any idea when was the last time it was fed?
 
i fed him the day i got him and im going to feed again on wensday.i thought he looked skinny for a 3.5-4ft red tail.he has smoe loose skin i thought it was from maybe starting his shed cycle but i dont think he wasnt taking care of him very well if he didnt even notice the mouthrot or so he says.im just wondering if the ball realy did die why hes not showing any pics like he said he would.if he would have taken it to the vet and something was wrong with it i would have payed for the vet bill as long as he had a copy of the bill.i just dont understand how it died in four days when he said it was fine and healthy.
 
i havent seen any more snot looking stuff in his mouth today is this a good sign of the mouthrot getting better or does that stuff just come and go.
 
I believe on the other thread, post #3 is a picture of the ball python he says he got from you.
 
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