• Responding to email notices you receive.
    **************************************************
    In short, DON'T! Email notices are to ONLY alert you of a reply to your private message or your ad on this site. Replying to the email just wastes your time as it goes NOWHERE, and probably pisses off the person you thought you replied to when they think you just ignored them. So instead of complaining to me about your messages not being replied to from this site via email, please READ that email notice that plainly states what you need to do in order to reply to who you are trying to converse with.

  • IMPORTANT! PLEASE READ!! About the Google Adsense ads being displayed

    =====================
    Posted 08/15/2025
    =====================


    Yeah, I know. They are a pain in the butt. But they pay the bills to keep my server running. Just a fact of life, I am afraid.

    Want to get rid of them? Simple. Just become a Contributor level member or above and they will be gone. -> Please click HERE."

    Is that too much for me to ask of you to keep this site running? Well, sorry about that. I too wish I could get everything for free. But alas.....

    =====================
    Addendum: 01/10/2026
    =====================


    Google Adsense ad revenue for December, 2025 was just $30 over the cost of the lease for the server running this site. So, in effect, the money providing the incentive for me to continue running this site is coming SOLELY from the paid memberships and sponsorships here. Which honestly ain't much....

I need help from fellow ball python owners please

Ophion said:
I did not see where you tried the bag. I would try again - put some holes and close the bag. Of course he wants to find his way out. The mouse is annoying and that is the point - irritating to the point he eats. Thats likely why 12 hours with the live one made no difference - they were separated most of that time in that space. made the difference for some of my noneaters (who were 40g hatchlings) Sometimes it isn't wait until he wants it - that day doesn't always happen. You don't want to stress him but you may have to get him a bit aggravated. I do think every 3 days is too often, give him 5. He may be thin but it makes no difference if all those attempts are doing nothing anyway.

You may not like anything smaller but it's what he may need. I wouldn't change much at this point, but remember breeders don't always do things because of space or money but do it because it works for the animals. Ball pythons don't need or want space. It is no harder to heat a 6qt than it is a 15qt. Small heat pad and thermostat - any heat should be on a thermostat anyway.
Click to expand...

I feel like a part of the problem may be that i already moved him from his tank to the 15 qt tub so like you said it may do more harm to switch him again at this point. I will take your advice and try the bag method again next time i try and feed him. Someone suggested i try a rat pinky, do you think i could leave him overnight with one of those in the bag? Also i fear you are correct in saying that the day may not come when he wants to eat, this raises my arguably most important question of will these snakes refuse until death simply because he may not be satisfied with his cage?
 
I doubt a rat pinky will work at this time unless that is what he was on before. Rat pinkies don't move much and usually it isn't enough to spark interest or agitate.

I would believe he was probably eating when you got him, but probably not strong enough or consistent enough to make the stressful transition. I would believe the housing complications, changes and close feedings just compounded the issues. Unfortunately the sad answer to your question is, yes, some will give up the ghost because something just isnt right. Usually, hopefully that does not happen to often especially with those actively attempting to help them. Give him some settle time, leave him be and try again after the 5 days.
 
Ophion said:
I doubt a rat pinky will work at this time unless that is what he was on before. Rat pinkies don't move much and usually it isn't enough to spark interest or agitate.

I would believe he was probably eating when you got him, but probably not strong enough or consistent enough to make the stressful transition. I would believe the housing complications, changes and close feedings just compounded the issues. Unfortunately the sad answer to your question is, yes, some will give up the ghost because something just isnt right. Usually, hopefully that does not happen to often especially with those actively attempting to help them. Give him some settle time, leave him be and try again after the 5 days.
Click to expand...

I contacted the breeder and after offering to take the snake back and re-establish him.. He suggested i switch it up with a rat pink. He was feeding on hoppers in the care of his breeder. I will not let him give up the ghost here and would play god and force/assist/tube feed before i let him accept death. At what point do those options realistically become the next necessary step?
 
Not seeing the snake I cannot say when I would realistically start assist feeding him, though does not seem long enough yet. However, with the breeders offer to take him back for a bit I would do that before assist feeding him. It may be stressful to transfer him again, but much less than assist feeding. He had the snake feeding before so it is a realistic option to consider.
 
Ophion said:
Not seeing the snake I cannot say when I would realistically start assist feeding him, though does not seem long enough yet. However, with the breeders offer to take him back for a bit I would do that before assist feeding him. It may be stressful to transfer him again, but much less than assist feeding. He had the snake feeding before so it is a realistic option to consider.
Click to expand...

Here are photos of my beautiful and sadly skinny boy Ivan. I am quite reluctant to give him back to be "re-established" but i just want to do what is best in the healthiest and most natural way possible for him. he spends most of his time trying to escape his 15 qt tub much like when he was in a larger cage. I have never had a problem feeder so his size is quite alarming to me.
 

Attachments

  • ivan1.jpg
    ivan1.jpg
    167.5 KB · Views: 98
  • ivan2.jpg
    ivan2.jpg
    144.8 KB · Views: 88
  • Ivan3.jpg
    Ivan3.jpg
    142.2 KB · Views: 93
I can't really comment on his weight, being a boa person myself, but he does look thin. If it was me I think I'd take up the breeders offer just to give yourself some breathing space.
 
That is very thin and light for his age. I've had hatchlings fresh out of the egg at 70 grams on a regular basis, and he's only 53! At this point I would probably assist feed or even tube feed, if you're comfortable with the latter.
 
Helenthereef said:
I can't really comment on his weight, being a boa person myself, but he does look thin. If it was me I think I'd take up the breeders offer just to give yourself some breathing space.
Click to expand...

I know the offer seems like a better course of action but i dont really know what he could realistically do that i haven't tried. I will have to try and feed him next week and base the next move on how that goes. I appreciate you and everyone elses input and advice
 
snowgyre said:
That is very thin and light for his age. I've had hatchlings fresh out of the egg at 70 grams on a regular basis, and he's only 53! At this point I would probably assist feed or even tube feed, if you're comfortable with the latter.
Click to expand...

I have never attempted or even needed to tube or assist feed any of my snakes so im not sure how it would go. As far as comfort im not afraid to be bitten but i dont want to stress him out any more. I know he is thin though and thats why i am at a crossroad for what to do
 
Jeremcy said:
I contacted the breeder and after offering to take the snake back and re-establish him.. He suggested i switch it up with a rat pink. He was feeding on hoppers in the care of his breeder. I will not let him give up the ghost here and would play god and force/assist/tube feed before i let him accept death. At what point do those options realistically become the next necessary step?
Click to expand...

Jeremcy said:
I have never attempted or even needed to tube or assist feed any of my snakes so im not sure how it would go. As far as comfort im not afraid to be bitten but i dont want to stress him out any more. I know he is thin though and thats why i am at a crossroad for what to do
Click to expand...

Given your lack of relevant experience, why have you not returned the snake to the local breeder? I can understand wanting to do it yourself; but - when you have had no experience starting babies, no experience with "problem feeders", never assist/force fed, and you have a nonfeeding baby that you are obviously concerned about - it seems like an obvious choice. (On the other hand, you're going to want to learn at some point anyway; so...)

Here's the thing, though - the breeder is local, and he offered to take it back to get it eating again. Take advantage of his offer, because you won't always be so lucky. If you keep it until it is too far gone, or injure (or kill) it during a feeding attempt, the seller won't be obligated to do anything for you (because you had the option of returning it). If the snake fails in his care, he owes you a replacement or a refund.
 
hhmoore said:
Given your lack of relevant experience, why have you not returned the snake to the local breeder? I can understand wanting to do it yourself; but - when you have had no experience starting babies, no experience with "problem feeders", never assist/force fed, and you have a nonfeeding baby that you are obviously concerned about - it seems like an obvious choice. (On the other hand, you're going to want to learn at some point anyway; so...)

Here's the thing, though - the breeder is local, and he offered to take it back to get it eating again. Take advantage of his offer, because you won't always be so lucky. If you keep it until it is too far gone, or injure (or kill) it during a feeding attempt, the seller won't be obligated to do anything for you (because you had the option of returning it). If the snake fails in his care, he owes you a replacement or a refund.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your tough love response. You are right, clearly I am unequipped to be dealing with the current feeding habits of the snake I was given. I am going to attempt one more feeding in a week. Luckily for me the breeder is local and a nice understanding guy, as I'm sure you are aware. Do you have any advice or input as for the snakes weight? Obviously he is thin but I don't think he is too far gone yet. Is the end of the month too long to wait? In my defense- while I have little experience to handle this problem, I could have never forseen being faced with these choices when buying the snake.
 
Jeremcy said:
In my defense- while I have little experience to handle this problem, .
Click to expand...

I don't think you need to defend yourself at all, you are doing all the right things by trying a variety of ways to feed him and by asking for advice. I think the "return him to breeder" idea makes sense because he was feeding for the breeder and it would de-stress both you and the snake by putting him back in "home" conditions.

If he still fails to thrive, you will then know it is not your fault, and if he starts to eat again you will have more time to work out what works and what doesn't. It's a win-win situation, and in your place I would take up that offer. It's not every breeder who would make it.
 
Helenthereef said:
I don't think you need to defend yourself at all, you are doing all the right things by trying a variety of ways to feed him and by asking for advice. I think the "return him to breeder" idea makes sense because he was feeding for the breeder and it would de-stress both you and the snake by putting him back in "home" conditions.

If he still fails to thrive, you will then know it is not your fault, and if he starts to eat again you will have more time to work out what works and what doesn't. It's a win-win situation, and in your place I would take up that offer. It's not every breeder who would make it.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the kind words. Youre right, my stress can hardly provide any benefit to him. I do feel as though ive provided the best and closest home conditions for him so far based on everyones advice, so its still a bit disheartening. Unfortunatley snakes don't talk and i cant read his mind.... which makes it difficult to know what exactly is making him unsatisfied.
 
Jeremy,
I hope you took my words in the spirit in which they were offered. I wasn't knocking your experience, or your desire to make this work. My point was that it's a battle you don't have to fight. Ball pythons, even CBB babies, can be stubborn feeders...and the simplest things can serve as obstacles in the path to getting them to thrive. The difference of a couple of degrees can stop a good feeder cold, as can a change of substrate. Heck, even unsuccessful feeding attempts can set a trend that is difficult to break. And, yes, they will take it to the point of malnutrition and death.
The best advice I can give you, to help you do this on your own, is to contact the breeder and get the specifics of what he was doing - tub size, temps, substrate, prey (everything) - and come as close to that as you can.

Your snake is thin, but not emaciated. You've got some time to play, but I still recommend taking the breeders offer.
 
So today i decided to offer a rat pinky, and he took right to it :D. Perhaps mice were just not appealing enough. Thank you everyone for your advice and help and lets hope this guy becomes a wonderful regular feeder.
 
Back
Top