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Looking for some info if anyones got the time!!

Drew1220

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Hey there everyone,

I just registered here because I have gotten a new profound interest in Beardies.. Im looking to get a pair of babies (In hopes Ill get a male and female by pure luck so I can breed later on down road).

Anyhow Im really in the dark because im just starting out, I know little things here and there figured maybe some people might be able to share there HANDS ON info with me.. I was wondering what does it mean when I see descriptions stating they only have a small nip at there tail?? Are nips like an undeveloped tail??

Also Im very curious about breeding, but even more so how to choose a good beardie. My g/f wants one but I figured I get too so the other will have a friend to play with while im at work.. I know they eat crickets,meal worms, and Lettuce but un sure how much of each they get.. Also is it ok to have more then one baby in the same tank?

I went to a coupld local reptile stores, one being very reputable (Prehistoric Pets) and they priced me 150 dollars for set-up (20 gal tank with heat lamp and substrate) and another 20 for the babie beardie..Is this good?? What kinds of substrate does everyone recommend..

Lastly for now when I do get into breeding, whats a good age to breed, how do I determine sex of beardies, and do I need to Incubate eggs?? or can I just put the momma in totally sep. tank with just soft dirt with her own lamp??

Im sorry for all the questions, but really want to get some beardies but want to PROPERLY know how to tend to them before I commit.. I may gop buy book but sometimes it's easier to just ask the pros..

Ill be open for suggestions on species..I dont know what species reptile stores sell but nothing to Fancy thats for sure.. Im considering the Orange tiger x snow thats for sale on this site..

Well thanks again hope to learn some stuff..

Drew
 
No one person is going to be able to answer all of your questions. If you really want a dragon, the first step is research and lots of it.

Lettuce is BAD. You want greens (collard, mustard, turnip, and dandelion). Feed spinach and kale in moderation (or not at all) as they are both high in oxalates which cause calcium binding.

The initial cost of the animal and its home are the least of your worries. During the first year, my two males cost me roughly $125 per month to feed. They ate about 1000 crickets per week plus greens. I eventually switched to silkworms (more expensive but a lot more "pleasant"). As adults, they cost about what it takes to feed my dog every month. Their diet consists of greens and vegetables with a treat of superworms once or twice a month.

Calcium and vitamin supplementation are critical, especially in the first couple of years. Make sure to have a light source that provides UV light and change the bulb approximately every 6 months.

There are some great sites out there for dragons and information on their care and breeding.

Try:

www.dragontank.com
www.daichu.com
www.sunshinedragons.com
www.dragonsdenherp.com
www.reptilerooms.com

to name a few.

I always come off as discouraging dragons as pets, but there is nothing further from the truth. My dragons have great personalities and are amazing pets. Their care is not a matter to be taken lightly though. They are quite an investment in dollars and time, especially as babies. I hate seeing dragons branded as a beginner lizard any more so that iguanas.
 
One thing I noticed is that you said you are getting babies. Make sure not to put them in sand unless it is extra fine playground sand and then only if it is sifted. When they are eating they can ingest some of the sand and get impacted. I have my babies on reptile carpet and it is working great. It is easy to clean also. Once my dragons get a lot bigger I will switch to sand.
Also dont be really concerned if you babies go through a time when they are young that they dont eat greens. You have to sometimes trick them into eating their veggies. Mine still dont like greens. You want to offer it to then always but it may be an acquired taste.
You can put two babies together but if they are both males you wont want to for long. If it is a female and male they will be OK until the female is about 6 months. You will then want to separate them until she is around 18 months (I think) when it would be OK for her to get pregnant. She can get pregnant when she is around 6 months but is way too young and unhealthy for her. When they breed they can remain together then when the female is ready to lay her eggs she will be put in a laying box with soil and then she deposits her eggs. The eggs are then placed in an incubator.
An orange tiger X snow would be a great color phase for breeding. If you do decide to breed really check into both the female and male. Make sure they are not related (my opinion).
Well there are few answers to your questions if you would like to know anything else just holler. I also agree with Starwarsdad, research, research, research. Beardies are great pets and worth the investment.
 
Ok so, I Bought my first pair of baby beardies today !!! Brimstone (Mine) and Ruby (Girlfriends)

I read the important stuff and also talked it over with my boss for he has been into snakes and all reptiles for awhile now, although he has no beardies I have no doubt that he knows how to tend for them since his wife will be getting one very soon..

I got them both in a 20 gal tank with pellet looking substrate the animal shop gave me that came with the starte package.. I will be moving them to sand once they past 10 inches which is what Sunshine dragons recommends I believe.. I will also Bake sand to kill any parasites..

I was worried that one may not be very active cause when I got them Brimstone was not moving much breathing hard and so when I got them set up in there new home I put about 10-15 baby crickets in for them and Brimstone went to twon and started chomping away.. I have a uvb lamp that is currently on but I will be shutting off while I sleep and a 60-watt night heat lamp..The temp ranges from 86-100 degrees on side with lamp..I know 86-95 is optimal I believe so is 100 baking them..I will be getting an additional strip to put on COOL side of tankt o take that temp measurement..

Im very excited and want to take REALLY GOOD CARE of my new additions so if im doing anythignwrong let me know..I will introduce Romaine lettuce to them tomorrow and I have baby crickets in a cricket corral eating green bits of foods that I got..I will also dust them with calcium powder the reptile store gave me.. Am I missing anything?? Do they need water dish.. Also how often do I change substrate??

Look forward to posting pics of my babies and hearing back from anyone who likes them!!

Heres two (One of setup, and one of them both..sorry my camera is not that great will work on getting better pics)

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v379/andrewrreed/submit042.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v379/andrewrreed/submit040.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">
 
A couple things, make sure that the crickets cant fit under the rabbit pellets and hide and maybe move the wood to under the heatlight, and maybe get an actual light insted of the black heat light. I say this because beardies generally tend to my much more active when there is more light. I just learned this recently because my dragons would just sleep all day because their cage wasn't as bright as it should have been. The growth rate increased for both of them when the light was better. Hope this helps.
 
Ok so what light would you recommend?? Lately my temps have been around 100 with on and 80-86 degrees with off at night.. I came home today on lunch break and noticed tank was up to 105 degrees so in fear of being TOO HOT i turned it off immediately..Is there something I should do to keep temps more constant, its starting to get hot out here and I have no control over how often A/C is on (My bro's house) Only thing I thought of was leave heat bulb off anf only turn on UVB lamp since the temp stays around 90 during day with lamp off anyhow..What does everyone suggest, I dont want to harm my little beardies!

Second I bought Mustard Greens for them just now, will attempt to start them on in the morning, I was told always feed veggies in morning BEFORE you give them cricks, so they get used to the veggies..Being baby beardies should they be on baby crickets more anyways?? I got to watch one of them eat last night havent seen other one eat yet..but they have a bunch of baby cricks in there from this morn (I put alot in cause I left for work at 4am and knew I wouldnt be getting off till around 6-7pm).. Now that I think about ti I will have ot make sure other one eats tomorrow..

I was thinking about moving wood under heat lamp but I was told they need to be closer to UVB light not heat lamp.. Tomorrow I will be getting my baby cricks, a new temp strip to monitor other side of tank, and if someone can recommend a new light possibly one of those too.. I want them to stay healthy and active, they always seem to be moving around though..Its only at night when I turn there lamps off that they run, jump in there tree and fall asleep on leaves.. I will be installing a timer for my lamps tomorrow set to go on 6am and turn off 6pm..is this adequate enough??

Still soo nervous and want to give my beardies the life they deserve.. I hold each one for a couple minutes a few times day so they get used to me, I read they like sunlight so should I take turns walking with them outside, or is that only when there older?

Is it normal for them to stand with it's head and tail arched up so there forming like a "U"..I know Mine is sleeping standing up in the tree with its head up right now..

What are some definite signs I need to look for that im not doing something right..

Look forward to some responses, and recommendations on a new bulb..does it need to be bright even though its only on during day time?? Thanks for the help everyone..keep thoughts coming, I need the input, but im trying to reasearch as much as possible as well..

Oh ya I was told to try and soak them couple times a week for 5 minutes..is this true?? I will be going out to get beardie book tomorrow from B&N..

Thanks again,
Drew
 
OH YA is there a way I can possibly determine the sex of my new beardies yet? I was told you couldnt tell until there like 6 months UNLESS your a true expert.. If someone needs me to post pics of each let me know I would appreciate knowing..Just let me know the views you need and ill post em
 
This link will help you *try* to determine the sex:
http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/sexing/
Note: You said earlier you were interested in breeding them? If you got them from the same place they are likely siblings and should NEVER be bred.

About temps: What are you using to measure the temps, I hope it isn't a stick-on "reptile thermometer" strip those aren't accurate at all. Use a digital thermometer with a probe on the hot spot (go to wallmart's garden section to find one). The hot spot should get between 95*-105* F.
About light: Get a UVB flourescent light. A good one is Reptisun 5.0 or Reptisun 10.0 by ZooMed, these provide D3 which is essential to a growing BD. These lights are NOT the same as the heat lamp, you can use a regular household bulb for heat (what you pay for at the petstore is a normal bulb with a lizard on the package). While a Reptisun bulb may seem expensive, keep in mind that it is the very best UVA/UVB flourescent on the market. Also, you should put your lights on an inexpensive timer (the kind you could find at wallmart for ten bucks) this saves you the trouble of switching the lights on and off, and creates a more stable routine, with less stress, for the BDs.
-Drew
 
I switched substrate to paper towels for the first couple months, jmust so crick cant hide and they dont get there limb caught in the pellets..I will takes pics of new set up right now and post pics one sec...Ok and I added another temp strip to other side..Got heat lamp on right now, that side is up to 86 degrees, and the opposing side where there sleep tree is is at 73 right now...

I gave them baths and one just layed there with eyes close every once and while tool real deep breathes, then when I went ot put it back it started to get more active and didnt want me to put it down and started to stick its tongue out a bit, my guess it was drinking the water on its head.. the other one wasnt having it so I only kept that one for 3 minutes and put it back..they run from me sometimes when I go to pick them up so I knwo there active..I will attempt to feed them at 4 tonight since last night they had A bunch of baby criks still in with them..I took all those out and will put 5 or so fresh ones in tonight with calcium powder on them..

here are the pics:

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v379/andrewrreed/submit046.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com" Height=500 Width=500>

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v379/andrewrreed/submit047.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com" Height=500 Width=500>

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v379/andrewrreed/submit048.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com" Height=500 Width=500>

Let me know what you think now.. I am gonna get some reptiile bites for them but local reptile store was out..and im gonna be getting my crick from a good supplier according to another member here that ive been talking too, didnt know quality of cricks matters as well..
 
Yep using strips...whoops thought they were adequate enough..Have to install timer but will do that tonight when I turn there lights off so I dont screw yup there routine..

I plan on getting a 3 babie that is obviously not it's sibling from a member here selling one, more exotic breed Orange tiger x snow..so hopefully that goes well but Im more concerned with keeping them good and healthy right now Ill worry bout bredding later..Got my timer from home depot and other then that ill keep them on cricks and try greens in morning..I read that I can shred up green in a dish then put a few, newly born caxworms in there and they may go for a wax worm and accidentally eat greeens and realize they like them..lol pulll a little trick on them.. Im gonna handle them AGAIN in 1 hour just so they get attention and get used to it..

Digital temp gauge, is that truly the best way to go?? running low on cash right now but get paid on friday so do you think I can hold off till then
 
Temps are among the most important things to keeping a dragon healthy. They can't digest if there basking spot is below 95* F and they fry if it is over 105*. So yes, it is
VERY important. An adult could probably wait until friday, but babies are growing and eat more and poop more, thus they NEED their heat light on. I wouldn't go on without knowing the REAL temps, a digital thermometer with a probe is under twenty bucks at wallmart. If you really want to splurge, spend $25 for a tempgun (that is what I have, it is great) at http://www.tempgun.com/ they are "non-contact" which means you simply have to aim it at something then click and it gives you a very precise temp. It is good if you have several cages you need to monitor. But yes, I think you should probably go ahead and buy it now.
-Drew
 
Hey I have a question??

I havent seen my babaie eat since the first night I had them even then only one ate but when I bought them they already have a bunch of baby cricks in the tanks with them and the other babies..Now should I not try and give them any cricks tonight and feed in morning, basically assuring that they are hungyr..or should I put a few cricks in there right now??

When I changed substrate out I noticed I missed a cricket and it has been roaming around in there tank..Now they havernt eaten it yet so I dont know if there NOT HUNGRY or not feeling well..Still kinda worried I havent seen the other one eat at all but not to say they didnt munch yest while I was at work.. They has a substantial amount of cricks in tank yest, I prob put too many so they might be ignoring them now..

So is it ok to not feed them tonight and wait for the morning..They drink the water I put on there head with there tongue and run from me when I try to pick them up so they are definitely active enough to do that but the one in particular (Who hasnt eaten to my knowledge) likes to lay on his tree branch under heat lamp basking with eyes closed.. they do have a cool spot in tank to go to (73 degrees on opposing side) so they shouldnt be getting dehydrated..tried sexing them from the link you provided too hard to tell..

Thanks for the hasty response

Drew
 
Your dragons still look VERY young, how long are they? They look to be pretty small, small enough that they should be eating a lot of insects every day, get a thermometer and several wattages of bulbs and play around with them until you can get a basking spot inbetween 95*-105* F this may help with the eating. Another thing to consider is the UVB, what brand and how old is their UVB lamp? I wouldn't feed them at night as, being cold blooded, they need heat to digest. Another thing to remember is to NEVER leave crickets, or any insects, in the tank overnight, they can chew up your dragons while they sleep.
-Drew
 
Ok I measured both, they are 4 inches long from tail to head.. I turned off air and this wil allow there basking spot to get to 90-100 if not 105 degrees.

I stuck there branch right underneath the heat lamp so they can lay right underneath it.. I stuck like 5 crickets in tank then left for like an hour and then came back but none were in there only thing I didnt look was to see if they hid under paper towel layers..but didnt fill anything.. My UVB lamp is made by Zoo med and is 10.0 Brand new came with starter kit from Prehistoric Pets.

So what now?? Ill have to catch the wandering crick I see around and then try again in morning there lights are about to go off since they like routine..
 
ReptiSun 10.0 is a great UVB lamp, (same one I use for my BIG tanks). It seems like you really care for your animals, it is good that you are worried about taking good care of them, you'll definitely get it all right eventually. If you have any other questions, I won't be able to answer them until tomorrow. It's getting late (I'm located in Kentucky, so there is a big time difference between you in California and me).
-Drew
 
Thanks alot,Im trying my best to make sure everything is right..they seem ok..I called reptile store where I got them and they said if they dont eat in couple of days bring them in and they will look at them..but we'll see how it goes tomorrow morn..

Thanks for all your help, have great night ill keep you informed
 
When they are that size they will poop pretty much everyday and even a couple of times per day.

When feeding them, I would separate them. This allows you to monitor who is eating what and prevents one from intimidating the other during feedings.
 
The above idea is definitely good, I would reccomend getting a seperate container, like a rubbermade storage container to feed them insects in, this way you don't have to worry about crickets getting under the paper towels. Feed them as many crickets as they will eat in 10 minutes, in fact at their age I would do that twice a day (once morning, once afternoon). They should be pooping everyday, but, again, if you have their heat light out, their metabolism is probably a bit slower, and thus they won't eat or poop. Get them a new light (probably around a 60-100 watt household bulb depending on how tall the cage is, start with a 60, if it isn't hot enough, move up to a 75, etc.) and a thermometer ASAP!
-Drew
 
I got there current heat light on right now..It gets basking area to 90 degrees if not hotter in later parts of day currently..Isnt that adequate heat..nothing that looks like poop yet... I woke them up from there tree this morning and set them on them basking branch to get them warm..there lights have been on since 6am I have automatic timer set to go on at 6am and off at 6pm to develop routine..although its still light out here at 6pm lol..

I will try feeding seperate for sure.. I notcied that they seem to be getting a little more active during day but mostly like laying on there branch and basking..but when they are under there heat lamp every once and while they wille like I dunno lick there lips or something..are they just breathing in air?? When we hold them they tend to breathe really fast but it slows down, I wil be soaking them again later 5 min each and going to get spray bottle to mist them at least 3 times a day.. I set them in there water bowel last night and they just stood in it for like 3 minutes then they jump in there tree to sleep..

So am I missing anythign else??
Did I already ask why is it they curl there tail upwards sometimes when under heat lamp??

thanks for more info!

Drew

Anyhow I will try feeding seperate
 
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