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mental issuies with boas

x3dhorrorxshow

x3dhorrorxshow

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i have a late o9 albino boa now thats shes getting a lil bigger im starting to think she might be retarted shes always been a lil slow but i thought that was because of being albino now she wont eat unless forced she dont move when theres danger what is the long term effect going to be and does anyone have any inforamtion on snake metal problems i dont know her parents but ive always been suspices thats she was an inbred there are pics of her in my profile pic alublms help me please!!
 
What are the temps in the cages. Temps as in not what size wattage the bulb is ( if thats your heat source ) but temps on the hot side and the cool side. Not saying that is the problem but its a easy one to rule out because its getting colder and unless you have a tstat then maybe the temps that were in your cage a few months ago are not getting as hot as they should be.
 
I agree with Joshua, the first potential issue to rule out is an environmental one. While we're at it, what are the cage specs other than temperature? And do you keep logs detailing dates of feedings, sheds, etc.?
 
yes i do keep track of sheds with are all healthy and the humitly is 55-60% i keep the light on for 8 hours right now because its winter i have an unrealted boa who grew up with her in the same tank(witch im moving soon) who is perfrecty health and is the right size and act as any nomal boa would and she het for albino but ivory the boa who we are disscuing is smaller and acts totally diffrent as ive explained the last 2 months she totally stop eating and ive been haveing to force feed when out of tank she dosent move around when danger is present she dont react one of her eyes is slightly diffrent from the other and she is small for her age she uses her head a lot to cling on and when picked up she holds on like her life depends on unlike my other boas who like to move and explore
 
and the temps in cage is alway around 87-90F i always feed her on the same day make sure she has gone potty for health reasons i check all my snakes every day so even tho there are 2 snake at the time and since they were young i can tell the diffrences i mark when she ate and when she stop and she is a kalh strain albino
 
Sorry, was AFK for a long weekend. I agree with Jeremy, especially as you have a second snake in the same cage that could conceivable catch anything the first one has.
 
What I see as potential problems is...

1. Housing two snakes together that aren't breeding. Boa are not communal animals.

2. The temps could be a tad warmer for the Albino, as they don't absorb heat as well, lacking any dark coloring. And a light isn't the best thing for them either, as it tends to dehumidify the air, as well as increase the potential for fire. Try getting one of these, it will prove well worth it in the health and safety of your snakes...

http://www.reptilebasics.com/ultratherm-undertank-heater-uth-11-x23.html

3. What do you use to monitor the temps and humidity? Those little dials and strips that most pet stores sell are questionable as to their accuracy. For about $13 at Wal-Mart you can get a digital read out that will monitor the hot side with a probe, the cool side by placing the unit on the other end, and the RH of the set up...

Cagedone11.jpg



4. Have you considered the animal may be blind? Wait till it's dark, and check on her with a flashlight, and see if her pupils dilate properly. If they don't, could be the answer to a couple things.


5. 2 months is not long for a Boa to go off feed. Certainly not long enough to warrant forced feedings. Force feeding is VERY stressful, and should only be done as a last resort. You will CAUSE stress by practicing it. :yesnod:


Hope that helps.
 
crotalusadamanteus said:
What I see as potential problems is...

1. Housing two snakes together that aren't breeding. Boa are not communal animals.

2. The temps could be a tad warmer for the Albino, as they don't absorb heat as well, lacking any dark coloring. And a light isn't the best thing for them either, as it tends to dehumidify the air, as well as increase the potential for fire. Try getting one of these, it will prove well worth it in the health and safety of your snakes...

http://www.reptilebasics.com/ultratherm-undertank-heater-uth-11-x23.html

3. What do you use to monitor the temps and humidity? Those little dials and strips that most pet stores sell are questionable as to their accuracy. For about $13 at Wal-Mart you can get a digital read out that will monitor the hot side with a probe, the cool side by placing the unit on the other end, and the RH of the set up...


4. Have you considered the animal may be blind? Wait till it's dark, and check on her with a flashlight, and see if her pupils dilate properly. If they don't, could be the answer to a couple things.


5. 2 months is not long for a Boa to go off feed. Certainly not long enough to warrant forced feedings. Force feeding is VERY stressful, and should only be done as a last resort. You will CAUSE stress by practicing it. :yesnod:


Hope that helps.
Click to expand...

I agree. I NEVER force feed a snake unless the vet gives me a darn good reason to do so. If anything, use a ceramic heat emmitter with a thermostat. You can get a thermostat with a dial, or even a rheostat for less than $20 bucks.
 
That would be ideal, I agree. I was just saying a CHE would work better than just a plain bulb/basking bulb. And to the OP, if you didn't know, Richard is the guy to listen to when it comes to boas, he has helped me with many problems.
 
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