• Responding to email notices you receive.
    **************************************************
    In short, DON'T! Email notices are to ONLY alert you of a reply to your private message or your ad on this site. Replying to the email just wastes your time as it goes NOWHERE, and probably pisses off the person you thought you replied to when they think you just ignored them. So instead of complaining to me about your messages not being replied to from this site via email, please READ that email notice that plainly states what you need to do in order to reply to who you are trying to converse with.

  • IMPORTANT! PLEASE READ!! About the Google Adsense ads being displayed

    =====================
    Posted 08/15/2025
    =====================


    Yeah, I know. They are a pain in the butt. But they pay the bills to keep my server running. Just a fact of life, I am afraid.

    Want to get rid of them? Simple. Just become a Contributor level member or above and they will be gone. -> Please click HERE."

    Is that too much for me to ask of you to keep this site running? Well, sorry about that. I too wish I could get everything for free. But alas.....

    =====================
    Addendum: 01/10/2026
    =====================


    Google Adsense ad revenue for December, 2025 was just $30 over the cost of the lease for the server running this site. So, in effect, the money providing the incentive for me to continue running this site is coming SOLELY from the paid memberships and sponsorships here. Which honestly ain't much....

Mike Powell Of Virgina Sells Bad Animals

Curious. Someone mentions welder's gloves, which seem pretty sturdy; and gets put down for it. I post a question about alternatives and no one has replied. Perhaps welder's gloves are reasonable; in any case there must be a way to handle any snake to take care of its needs. I do think that while the BOI is an important avenue for addressing deals, getting in there and helping the snake even if it is a bit of a challenge is very important.
 
This is what I do..

I have never used welding gloves. I do have a thick pair of work gloves I use if I need to and also I use a hook. I really only use them if I just bought a nasty animal and decide to try and tame them down a little. I only keep Chondro's and Emerald's so if your talking about Amazon's, I have no experince with them. Hope that help's. You can email me if you have any other question's.

Thanks, Tim Rash
[email protected]
 
Maybe I'm too late with these suggestions

Shed-aid from Terrafauna works very well (10 drops per gallon) regrettably they quited producing it although you still find some suppliers that might have it. Every time I see some available I buy all their stock, and I still have at home just in case. I have never tried Shed-ease, which is currently available in the market. I have tried with success "mineral oil" (you can buy it in Wal-Mart or any pharmacy) very inexpensive, and completely harmless and inert. A little messy (like any oil) but starts softening the old skin almost immediately and after a while you can just remove it rubing gently with a piece of cloth in the direction head to tail.

Regards.
 
Get to a VET ASAP

First, listen to Greg Clark and use the towel method to get the shed off that snake or it will not eat for you. Emeralds will often not feed when stuck in a shed. If you can't control the snake by yourself then seek assitance from an experienced herp-oriented friend. If you are scared of being bit then maybe a basin isn't for you.

Second, get to a vet...that is obviously a fresh import and it is not only dehydrated but parasitized as well, I can almost guarantee it by the body mass. That animal will also be in need of some injected fluids. Emeralds do not cope well with being dehydrated for a long time and kidney damage will soon follow, if it hasn't already. It's too bad if you have to drop a couple of "100's", the snake deserves it. If you can't afford it then give it to someone who can. I work for a non-profit museum that will gladly take it off your hands.

Thirdly, thanks for posting your experience with Mike. I had often contemplated doing business with him and had heard a few stories which have kept me at bay. Your experience confirms my belief that he's someone i won't be doing business with. I'm sorry your snake is less than you had hoped for and that you lost all that money...it's really a crappy situation.

thanks and good luck, let me know if you need any help or have questions on how to help that snake. You can email me offlist at [email protected]
 
Danny, it would be good to post hints for help online so as we may all learn. As far as vet help, rather than offering to take it 'off his hands' (this is a magnificent snake and he should not add insult to injury by even thinking of throwing the towel in now, the snakes health is paramount and it seems like a vet visit might help) we can all help keep snake and owner united by posting places and vets that may help for reasonable if it is necessary. I live a few hours from Texas A&M for instance and they have a world renowned vet school; and often places like this will help with the very latest technology, for a very reasonable cost.
 
Lucille, he specifically stated the reason he didn't use welders gloves to handle... It's really NOT the fact that he dislikes being bitten, although this is, of course, a matter of minor concern... It's the damage the snake can potentially do to ITSELF when biting or striking. He has here an animal which is obviously underweight, has a stuck shed, may be parasitized, is obviously easily stressed and is refusing food. That's piling problem ontop of problem. Each of them by themselves would be fairly easy to overcome, but when combined they become a fairly serious threat to the animal's continued health and well being... If he were to simply bust out a pair of heavy gloves the animal would strike them repeatedly, possibly try to constrict his hands and twist it's head around a bit in doing so. Leather by itself is better than bare skin if the object is to avoid a puncture, but they can bit through... or at least into it... Then it's tensile strength (the strength it has when pulled and twisted) is very high. When a tooth is lodged in leather, the tooth and gums usually end up losing. A missing tooth here or there is normal and natural and it'll grow back... they drop them into prey all the time and then pass them... But when dealing with an animal already in fairly poor condition, it's an additional stress and, given that stress means a weakened immune system (as do several of it's other problems) the potential for a secondary infection in the open tissue where the tooth was is a more signifigant concern than it normally would be.

Justin knows what he's doing with these animals. If he says that a certain method won't be effective or presents more of a risk at the present time than should be considered acceptable... Then he's right. The good suggestions that he got, he stated he would attempt. Trying to fight with him because a suggestion was dismissed or criticizing his husbandry and dedication to this animal is inappropriate (Karen, this means you).
 
Danny, it would be good to post hints for help online so as we may all learn.

And as to this... There are discussion forums for arboreal boids. Got a question? Ask it there and someone will answer. Heck, send me a private message and I'll answer anything you want to know. Danny shouldn't be shot at for not offering husbandry information in a BOI thread about a bad seller, especially given that he is aware, at least in part, of what Justin's level of experience is and knows that for Justin a six page lecture about the issue would be meaningless in the potential resolution of this issue.

Out of curiosity... Has the seller been told this thread is here? He might have a completely different version of events or, if given the chance, may shoot himself in the foot and cement the bad guy post he's been given.
 
no feeding for a month and his shed been stuck on him for 4 weeks now,

I tried soaking but it was stressing so much figured it would do more harm than good


I posted after reading his first two posts. The posts come off like someone scared of an animal. He acted afraid to handle it and wanted suggestions. So I suggested welder's gloves. There is no excuse to leave a shed on an animal for 4 weeks, I don't care how "insane" it is. If he's so worried about stressing it, then he would remove the shed. Then he told me to "get lost".

Seamus Wrote:
he specifically stated the reason he didn't use welders gloves to handle... It's really NOT the fact that he dislikes being bitten, although this is, of course, a matter of minor concern... It's the damage the snake can potentially do to ITSELF when biting or striking.

Actually Seamus he didn't write that the animal would hurt itself on the gloves. Here's what he wrote and yes it does sound like he doesn't like being bitten. (I don't either for that matter.)

Justin Wrote:
Shows how much you know, welders gloves are like paper to this guy, there only thin leather, 1/2 in canines are no joke.

Seamus Wrote:
Trying to fight with him because a suggestion was dismissed or criticizing his husbandry and dedication to this animal is inappropriate (Karen, this means you).

I wasn't trying to fight with him. He's the one trying to fight with me. All I did was offer a suggestion because he acted like he didn't know what he was doing. He's the one that told me to get lost. I said that if he would have posted how the animal reacted to the water than I wouldn't have posted what I did.

I just reacted to what I read in his posts which sound like a newbie who is scared of an animal.

Karen
 
Seamus I certainly do not mind owning up if I've <font color=red>[**censored**]</font>ed up but I went back and read my posts and they were more of a questioning nature rather than saying anything was wrong. If you are saying I should not question this person because of his knowledge, coming from you that is good enough; but how about posting a list of everyone who might post on the boi whose statements I should take as gospel, just so I do not run afoul again, my friend.
 
just a few sugestions

I have had sucess with the following methods:

1. the towel method

2. raise cage temp 3 degrees and mist snake with a mister that contains warm water and a little mineral oil (not baby oil).

3. mist snake and put a slightly rougher branch in the cage so he/she can do the job his or herself.

4. Bite the bullet and put on gloves and just get it off it.
Either way, the stress level goes up, but atleast the snake will be more comfortable and maybe eat after a while.

I am sure that you have nothing but the snakes best interest at heart. I am truley sorry that you did not recieve a healthy animal and that the seller is not willing to work with you on settling this.

I hope you and the poor snake get some peace of mind.
 
He acted afraid to handle it and wanted suggestions. So I suggested welder's gloves. There is no excuse to leave a shed on an animal for 4 weeks, I don't care how "insane" it is. If he's so worried about stressing it, then he would remove the shed.

He did at some point note that trauma to the mouth would make the situation worse. I'm not going to wander back and find it because frankly it's not that important.

All I did was offer a suggestion because he acted like he didn't know what he was doing. He's the one that told me to get lost. I said that if he would have posted how the animal reacted to the water than I wouldn't have posted what I did.

Here's the thing... As we take this further and further onto a tangent... Your advice was not appropriate for the animal, the condition and the species that was being discussed, regardless of what Justin may or may not know himself. There is pretty strong evidence that the animal is not LTC, but a fairly fresh import and certainly evidence that it hasn't eaten in awhile and is already primed for negative stress based reactions to any given situation. Suggestions that he put on gloves (Lucille, for an emmie, no gloves are best. If the animal is one of the hyperagressive ones, use a hook. If it's an average emmie or you absolutely have to have hands on contact, just grin and bear it, your skin is less valuable than the animal's teeth, gums and health) and hand shed this animal are just absurd. It would react very poorly and likely injure itself should he try and restrain it enough for such to be a possibility. The towel suggestion is a good one... low impact, lowest stress from the avliable options. It comes from someone who knows the species. The suggestion of hand shedding this particular animal given the condition and background information was simply ignorant.

Further, as it has not produced any stool and is pretty thin, chances are good that it hasn't eaten in long enough to have caused a kind of cessation of digestive enzyme production. Or it's a puker, that's a possibility that must be acknowledged as well... But either way, force feeding it, if it didn't literally kill itself during the process would probably just result in a regurge anyway... if it didn't regurge, then it would have undigested material rotting in it's gut. Restarting the digestive process can be tricky and cramming a rat into this animal is not the way to go... I can't recall who made THAT suggestion, but it was garbage too.

If you are saying I should not question this person because of his knowledge, coming from you that is good enough; but how about posting a list of everyone who might post on the boi whose statements I should take as gospel, just so I do not run afoul again, my friend.

I am saying that general husbandry questions have their appropriate forums and that this is not it. The direction this thread has evolved in is so off course as to make the last several pages meaningless. While the question may have come to mind when you were reading this thread, this thread itself is not the appropriate place to be asking what sort of handling tools are appropriate for emmies unless the original issue directly centered around it (Buyer X used a pinning stick, broke their snakes neck and now wants a refund, bad buyer, beware. Or... Seller Y sent me a snake with no front teeth and infected gums kind of situations). If you were to create a thread in the arboreal boid section about which handling tools people like and dislike, you would get better answers and none of us would have detracted from the issue of a snake being sold in poor condition.
 
I never said he should hand shed the animal.

The only posts that are ignorant and unhelpful here are yours.

Yes most of this thread does not belong here but the fact remains that the man asked for general husbandry advice and he got it. He shot everyone down, however. Apparently this snake cannot be handled. Pffffft.

According to you, Seamus, everyone's advice (except for the towel advice) is garbage, ignorant then what is the "correct" advice????


Karen
 
From what I have read so far it is apparent no-one has ever used Shed-aid before. If the animal is placed in a plastic tub for 2-3 hours in water containing 10 drops per gallon of the product there is no need at all to remove the shed with a towel. The old skin will peel by itself and you will find it floating in the water.

Regards.
 
it does work.

Mr. Garcia,
I do use shed aid, and yes it does work. I use it in the rescue all the time. It is a great product and it works well when I have a turn in that has a bad case of shed on shed including retained eye caps. I just wish more herp shops around here carried it.
 
Karen,
Where did he ask for husdandry suggestions? I looked could not find it. Everyone through there 2 cents in. All he is bringing up is the BAD deal he got from Mike Powell PERIOD.
 
Back
Top