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New Baby Beardie help!

G

GJOsik

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I just got my baby beardie on 09/02/10. I have all the right temps and the right setup. The first day i had him he downed 10 crickets. Yesterday he didnt eat any but did eat a good bit of veggies. Today he also had a bit of veggies and only 3 crickets. This leads to my concern. Everytime someone comes over to his tank or into the room, he bolts and hides. And when he hides he wont come out and eat his crickets. Im afraid that he wont open up to me and furthermore wont eat his staple foods. Is this just stress that every beardie gets when moving into a new atmosphere? or is there something i can do or change to unstress him?
 
Most babies go through a bit of stress when shipped, some are naturally more flighty than others. You definitely have a flighty one. Good thing is that it's eating....some won't eat for a few days after shipping. Just let him get used to his new place and feel secure. Don't handle him for a little while, a week or 2...when you do start holding it, just hold it in the cage let it set on your hand, don't grasp tightly, put your hand in and let it climb on. I don't really like a hiding place in the cage, they can get used to that and stay hidden . You could tape or drape something around 3 sides of the cage to keep him from seeing every motion in the room. You will have to work on it. Don't allow dogs, cats, fast-moving kids in the room for awhile, then ease them gradually in if they are allowed in that part of the house.
 
Thanks for the reply. Is it safe to go ahead and remove his hiding places or will that just make the problem worseby stressing him more
 
He hides when someone comes intothe room and only comes out after we live. When he goes to sleep tonight which he does soundly ill take his hiding places out. Good idea?
 
It would be a very good idea to take out the hide. I do not offer hide to new joins or hatchlings as a hide can actually hinder the acclimation process.

Now relocation stress can last as long s a month. But there are ways to help the adjustment along. If your tank is glass you can cover three sides so activity is centered to only one viewing point will help a lot. Another thing you can do is contact the breeder you got it from and ask for some pointers on what his/her setup was like prior to you getting the dragon (such as substrate and basking temps). Anything you can do to mimic the setup your dragon came from can greatly reduce stress. Also, if you move the tank so he doesnt see the entrance of the room (meaning angle him away from the doorway) that can help a lot too. Food luck, relocation stress is something most everyone goes through with reptiles.
 
His tannk is in the corner of the room and his front of the tank is facing away from the door so all I need to do is cover the side he watches which is the right side of the tank. I'm afraid to take out his hiding spot because he has already adopted it as his spot. And if I take it out I think hell be more stressed. Like hell be thinking what the hell he's messing with me again. I'm going to leave him status quo for a week or two and only and enter his tank to feed. The ony good thing is is that he is feeding.
 
GJOsik said:
His tannk is in the corner of the room and his front of the tank is facing away from the door so all I need to do is cover the side he watches which is the right side of the tank. I'm afraid to take out his hiding spot because he has already adopted it as his spot. And if I take it out I think hell be more stressed. Like hell be thinking what the hell he's messing with me again. I'm going to leave him status quo for a week or two and only and enter his tank to feed. The ony good thing is is that he is feeding.
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whatever you feel is right for you but i highly suggest against using a hide with a baby. Especially one you just got. The draw to stay in their hide and not bask would be too high and could lead to health issues.
 
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