• Posted 12/19/2024.
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    I am still waiting on my developer to finish up on the Classifieds Control Panel so I can use it to encourage members into becoming paying members. Google Adsense has become a real burden on the viewing of this site, but honestly it is the ONLY source of income now that keeps it afloat. I tried offering disabling the ads being viewed by paying members, but apparently that is not enough incentive. Quite frankly, Google Adsense has dropped down to where it barely brings in enough daily to match even a single paid member per day. But it still gets the bills paid. But at what cost?

    So even without the classifieds control panel being complete, I believe I am going to have to disable those Google ads completely and likely disable some options here that have been free since going to the new platform. Like classified ad bumping, member name changes, and anything else I can use to encourage this site to be supported by the members instead of the Google Adsense ads.

    But there is risk involved. I will not pay out of pocket for very long during this last ditch experimental effort. If I find that the membership does not want to support this site with memberships, then I cannot support your being able to post your classified ads here for free. No, I am not intending to start charging for your posting ads here. I will just shut the site down and that will be it. I will be done with FaunaClassifieds. I certainly don't need this, and can live the rest of my life just fine without it. If I see that no one else really wants it to survive neither, then so be it. It goes away and you all can just go elsewhere to advertise your animals and merchandise.

    Not sure when this will take place, and I don't intend to give any further warning concerning the disabling of the Google Adsense. Just as there probably won't be any warning if I decide to close down this site. You will just come here and there will be some sort of message that the site is gone, and you have a nice day.

    I have been trying to make a go of this site for a very long time. And quite frankly, I am just tired of trying. I had hoped that enough people would be willing to help me help you all have a free outlet to offer your stuff for sale. But every year I see less and less people coming to this site, much less supporting it financially. That is fine. I tried. I retired the SerpenCo business about 14 years ago, so retiring out of this business completely is not that big if a step for me, nor will it be especially painful to do. When I was in Thailand, I did not check in here for three weeks. I didn't miss it even a little bit. So if you all want it to remain, it will be in your hands. I really don't care either way.

    =====================
    Some people have indicated that finding the method to contribute is rather difficult. And I have to admit, that it is not all that obvious. So to help, here is a thread to help as a quide. How to become a contributing member of FaunaClassifieds.

    And for the record, I will be shutting down the Google Adsense ads on January 1, 2025.
  • Responding to email notices you receive.
    **************************************************
    In short, DON'T! Email notices are to ONLY alert you of a reply to your private message or your ad on this site. Replying to the email just wastes your time as it goes NOWHERE, and probably pisses off the person you thought you replied to when they think you just ignored them. So instead of complaining to me about your messages not being replied to from this site via email, please READ that email notice that plainly states what you need to do in order to reply to who you are trying to converse with.

Provent-a-mite....

Griz

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Well, this weekend proved to be quite interesting at our household. Quite a number of months back, I received 2 females into my collection that had mites. I quarantined them and treated with the very expensive Provent-a-mite. As is typical when using this stuff, the treatment went well and the animals are now very healthy. I now use this stuff by spraying onto a paper towel and wiping down the exterior of my boaphiles so that any possible mite that could ever be missed will never make it into my caging. I also use this to spray the perimeters of my snake room and quarantine room just to be on the safe side. Well, as you all know, this stuff is not cheap.

Anyways, skip forward to this past weekend. We had my niece and nephew over for the weekend. My niece kept complaining of her head itching so we checked it out as we assumed she simply had not washed all of the shampoo out. Instead, we found out that her head was crawling with lice!!!! Grrrr..... Did I tell you I hate my sister-in-law? Anyways, in order to safe guard our own children we purchased the lice in a box kit and treated them accordingly. Inside of the box was a spray can that is used to spray down bedding etc. As I was reading the directions I noticed that it used permethrin, which is the main ingrediant in Provent-a-mite. This came as no shock to me as I had seen where permethrin was a common lice/mite killer. What I did not know was that a spray can was available. I has seen the shampoo's etc but not a can. I compared it to my Provent-a-mite and the ratio is exactly the same. The only difference is that this can is $3 vs $21!!!!!

Needless to say, I will be using this vs provent-a-mite from now on. Good grief, talk about taking advantage of the end user!

Griz
 
I saw a thread about this on another forum about 2 years ago over the same issue. Basically the person who was selling it had no defense against the argument that the lice treatment was the same thing and MUCH cheaper. I have never used Provent-a-Mite and if I do need it, I will be visiting the local Wally Mart for some RID or whatever they call it now.....
 
Man, it pays to shop around. I have been a loyal customer of a fairly well known reptile supplier. Most of the time I do not even look at costs as they are always within the same ballpark and this place has been good to me. Well, earlier today I went to purchase some chlorohexidine to clean my cages. I was accustomed to paying around $40 with shipping for a 1 gallon container. I decided to do a quick search and found not only multiple places selling this same gallon for under $25 shipped but I also found it here locally for quite a bit less! I will still use this supplier for other items but you can bet you dollar that I will shop this around from now on!

Griz
 
Bob, I do not know if it is the same in your state but in Texas we have feed stores, places that farmers buy feed and chemicals. Available there are dilutable bottles of 20% permethrin, which if properly diluted out is even cheaper still by a factor of at least 10 than the store bought lice treatment.

BTW a few helpful hints I have gathered as a school nurse as far as the treatment of lice: It really does help to do the follow up treatment 10 days later. And, one thing that many people forget is to spray the fabric upholstery in their car, where the little critters can hide out, lots of people do their homes conscientously and forget their cars and the problem persists.
 
Lice is a very LARGE stigma for me. I had always associated it with dirty individuals. So, needless to say, this really made me rethink things. I kind of feel bad for the kids I teased when I was 10 and they got sent home due to lice.

I did a ton of research when we saw what she had as I wanted to ensure that none of these little buggers got on my kids. Within 3 hours of finding them, we had the exterminator out and he sprayed the entire house. Most of the sites tell you not to worry about anything that is not in the child's hair as lice can only live up to 24 hours without a host. That by treating the hair and then repeating 7 days later, you will kill all lice and eggs.

Anyways, this little saga at least saved me some money although it cost me a lot in grief!

Griz
 
what is this lice thing in a can called Bob? i dont need it but its good to know so when I'm at the store i can stock up ..i too use p.a.m to wipe down the cages and the doors never thought about the perimeter .so at 21 a can i think i might go the other choice thanks for the help
 
I too use a product similar to P-A-M and it is only $5 a can for the same exact stuff, works the same and is great on not lightening my wallet.
 
Actually, mine has no name. It was included in a generic box of lice killer. But, the drugstore had individual cans for sale. I would go to Walmart etc and I am sure you will find it. Just make sure that the main ingrediant is permethrin and I believe the ratio is .50% (double check this figure though!).

Griz
 
i was wondering can you spray the bedding, tube/tank, and the snake it self to prevent any out breaks like p.a.m. i have been using a product from hotshot on top of my screen cages to help prevent an outbreak but it is expensive also.
 
As per the thread below,you cant beat NIX.
It will kill the eggs too,the other products wont.


M/
 
THIS IS A COPY AND PASTE.....

Here is some info for you to check out:

Nix was designed to treat human head lice and their nits (eggs). The one characteristic that separates the Nix method for treating snake mites from other mite remedies is its effectiveness at killing live mites AND mite eggs. All other mite remedies to my knowledge do not destroy mite eggs. As such, I have found the Nix method to be extremely effective at eradicating serious mite infestations. I even know of a pet store manager who sells several commercially produced mite remedies, yet uses the Nix method on imported snakes arriving at his store. Another pro to using Nix is economics. Around $12 will produce 4 litres of solution – much more than the largest private collection will ever require.

There exists a popular reptile care site on the Internet that discusses the toxicity of Nix, but in the two cases cited, Nix was spread over the infested snakes in full concentration. Common sense should dictate that reptiles and amphibians coming in direct contact with any fully concentrated chemical that does not occur in their natural environment would yield deleterious, if not downright fatal, results. The use of Nix discussed below involves a diluted solution (1 part Nix to 68 parts water) that has never produced adverse reactions in any python or boa in my collection over the course of 6 years. In fact, some snakes in my collection are proactively treated every 6 months as they make appearances at semi-annual reptile shows and I am not willing to risk the chance of mites from other exhibitors making their way into my collection. Even routine treatments on these boas and pythons over the course of several years have yet to result in any negative effects.
Materials
• Spray bottle. Preferably one that has never been used, or at the very least, one that has never contained harsh chemicals and has been thoroughly rinsed.
• 56 g (59 ml) bottle of Nix. I have only ever found this one particular size of Nix, which can be sourced at most drug stores and some pharmacy sections of grocery stores for anywhere from $6-$12.
• 4L (1 Gallon) jug of distilled water. Distilled water should be used to extend the shelf life of the solution. With distilled water, the solution’s effectiveness is expected to last up to 12 months as long as the solution is stored at room temperature and in a covered box (light breaks down the active ingredient found in Nix). Although, with one treatment and sound quarantine practices, the first treatment should be all that is necessary.

Creating the Nix Solution
• Pour the Nix cream into the 4L jug of distilled water. Nix is a fairly thick cream substance, so it may take a couple minutes to transfer as much of the cream into the jug of distilled water as possible.
• Replace the cap on the jug of distilled water and shake until the Nix cream is evenly distributed throughout the water. Again, this may take a few minutes due to the thick consistency of Nix.
• Pour the Nix solution into a spray bottle.

Eradicating Snake Mites
• If snake mites are only found on one snake or only in one snake enclosure, it is wise to conclude that mites have infested ALL snakes and their enclosures that are contained within the same room. Mites may have also transferred to snakes housed in another room by “hitchhiking on your hands or clothes. Therefore, absolutely all snakes and their terrariums should be treated to ensure 100% effectiveness.
• First, remove the snake from the enclosure and place in a Rubbermaid container. Spray the snake liberally with the Nix solution. Do not avoid spraying this solution on their head, eyes and heat pits – in fact, this is where mites commonly hide so spraying the head area is essential.
• Remove all substrate from the terrarium and throw away. Do not leave the garbage bag containing this old substrate anywhere in the house.
• Spray the entire enclosure, inside and out, including all cage furniture (branches, hide boxes, water bowl, etc.) and glass viewing area. Make sure that all corners and crevices are well covered with Nix solution, as this is where mites and their eggs are often hiding. Even spray the outside back of the cage and a 2-foot perimeter around the cage on the floor. The Nix residue that forms after drying is thought to even be effective at killing mites hiding out elsewhere in the room that may attempt to re-enter the snake cage.
• Replace the substrate with paper, preferably paper towel, as it is easy to spot mites on this. It is essential to use paper until you are absolutely certain that full eradication has been accomplished. I suggest waiting 3 weeks after the last live mite is spotted before using non-paper substrate.
• Remove water bowl from cage and replace, filled with water, 24 hours later. This ensures that the Nix solution is not washed off the snake by soaking in the water bowl before the active ingredient has had a chance to destroy all mites hiding under its scales.
• Return the snake to its enclosure and spray it, the cage, furniture and paper one more time.
• When the snake defecates during treatment, remove the paper and clean the messed area as usual, but be sure to re-spray the cleaned area and new paper with Nix solution.
• Repeat in 5-7 days twice, for a total of 3 treatments. With all likelihood, the last live mite will perish within a few hours of the first treatment, but repeating treatment is good practice in case the outbreak is severe and mites are able to re-enter cages.
Preventative Maintenance
Any snake entering a collection should be quarantined for 2-3 months, ideally in a completely separate room from where other snakes are housed, but at the very least in a separate cage. It should be assumed that any new snake has mites, regardless of how well respected the previous owner or pet store is. I have personally been let down on several occasions by leading breeders in our hobby, and from personal friends. It is my experience that employing the “better safe than sorry” approach is of paramount importance in ensuring mite breakouts never occur.

Given the above assumption new acquisitions, in addition to their cage and cage furniture, should be treated with Nix solution 3 times (one full treatment every 5-7 days). Same should hold true when a snake enters your colony for a breeding loan, even if it is your own specimen that was lent out and is returning. As previously mentioned, it is also wise to treat snakes that attend shows, where other exhibitors and spectators may have mite infestations. With the large number of people that handle your animals, or even just touch the enclosure in which your snakes are housed, the chance that a mite is hitchhiking on at least one of these snake enthusiasts at the show is good. Don’t become complacent and cut corners in this area, or you may find yourself right back where you started.

Cage furniture and substrate purchased at pet stores can also serve as mite vectors and should be treated with caution. Mite-free substrate can be purchased from pet stores that do not carry reptiles, from a livestock feed stores, or from landscape centres. Newly purchased cage furniture should be sprayed liberally with Nix solution. Highly porous cage furniture (wood hide boxes, branches, etc.) should be soaked in a 10% bleach solution for a day, then rinsed thoroughly, sprayed with Nix solution, and allowed to dry for a week.
 
I will never use or recommend Provent a Mite.
They sued Black Knight, and made them stop selling it.
Not to mention the email threats of suing me if I didn't stop.
 
Shawn is nix a liquid ? i looked at walmart and there was 2 bottles of a conditioner in the box not sure if it is the same thing you are talking about.
 
thank you Shawn the one i bought says and looks like cream rinse. i got it from walmart and it has two 2 ounce bottles. is the mix 1 2oz bottle per gallon of water.

thanks for the help
john patino
 
John,

56 grams is equal to 2 ounces. So you would want to mix one of those two 2 ounce bottles into a gallon of distilled water.
 
Another tip! Walmart sells an off brand of NIX also. It's equate brand and is the exact same thing. You can get it in 6oz bottles for the same price or less than the 2oz bottle of NIX brand. Also you can buy the shampoo itself and not have to buy the whole kit. Since it is not premeasured if you buy the 6oz bottle the easiest way to measure it out is 1/4 cup to a gallon of distilled water. I used this treatment on Monday on 4 snakes that came in with mites and when I checked them last night there was still no sign of mites. I will retreat tonight just to make sure but this stuff works great.

1/4 cup = 2oz
 
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