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Sick Savannah Monitor

so the bulb i have is the Repti Glo 10.0 Compact

Desert Terrarium Lamp
• Ideal for all desert dwelling reptiles
• Ultra High UVB output
• Effective up to 50 cm (20”)
• Provides necessary UVB rays for optimal calcium metabolism
• Recommended for use with screened terrariums;
terrariums with dense screen covers
(screens can filter out UVB rays)
• Recommended in combination with
Repti Glo 2.0 for a higher visual
light output
The Exo Terra Repti Glo 10.0 has a very high
UVB output similar to that associated with desert environments.
Desert locations receive more direct sunlight than any other
because of fewer clouds, less air humidity and no plants or trees
to provide shade. Therefore desert reptiles are more exposed to
UV radiation than any other type of reptile. This bulb can also be
used on screened terrariums or terrariums with dense screen
covers to ensure UVB penetration. Dense screens can filter out up
to 50% of the UVB rays. Fluorescent bulbs lose their UV radiation
and approximately 50% of their lighting output quality within one
year. Changing your terrarium bulb regularly ensures optimal
light conditions and UV radiation to keep your reptiles healthy.
Visit www.exo-terra.com to “Restore The Rays”.

And i need to stack that bulb with
Mercury Vapour
The Exo Terra Solar Glo Sun Simulating Lamp is the solution to one of the most important aspects
of keeping reptiles and amphibians, providing the benefits of natural sunlight. The proper balance
of ultraviolet light (including UVA and UVB), visual light and infrared light (heat) in one easy-toinstall
bulb makes the Exo Terra Solar Glo the choice of professional breeders. The Solar Glo is a
full spectrum light with carefully tuned peaks to ensure appetite, activity, brilliant colours, and calcium
absorption through Vitamin D3 production, and above all to prevent metabolic bone disease.
The Exo Terra Solar Glo is available in two wattages, 125 W and 160 W. Exo Terra refrained
from developing lower wattages as lower wattages simply do not generate enough heat for
these self-ballasted bulbs to work properly, making them unstable and unreliable.


So my question is i need both of them or just the top one/bottom
 
If you look at the lighting chart they provide for reptiles, they recommend using....

Sun Glo Neodymium Basking Spot Lamp (incandescent) during the day
Heat Glo Infrared Heat Lamp (incandescent) during the night
with
Repti Glo 2.0 Daylight Terrarium Lamp (fluorescent) during the day
Repti Glo 10.0 Desert Terrarium Lamp (fluorescent) during the day

This combination will give you the BEST possible spectrum combination you can have for a Savannah Monitor, (and sell exo terra more bulbs) but you can still achieve great results with just a couple different bulbs.

The Neodymium is a wider beam then the Tight Beam so it heats a wider area of the cage as opposed to the tight beam that gives off a stronger more direct beam. Both work great as basking bulbs. The tight beam is just more direct intensity.
As for the fluorescent bulbs you can pretty much use any grow light or full spectrum fluorescent lighting. I use shop lights with 4' fluorescent grow light tubes. Works great. If you want to use the infra red at night to increase the night time temp in the cage that's cool too. I do that in the winter. Keep the average day temp around 80 with the basking spot at around 95-110 and you're good. You MUST and I mean MUST provide a proper basking lamp and site if any light at all.
 
f you look at the lighting chart they provide for reptiles, they recommend using....

Sun Glo Neodymium Basking Spot Lamp (incandescent) during the day
Heat Glo Infrared Heat Lamp (incandescent) during the night
with
Repti Glo 2.0 Daylight Terrarium Lamp (fluorescent) during the day
Repti Glo 10.0 Desert Terrarium Lamp (fluorescent) during the day

This combination will give you the BEST possible spectrum combination you can have for a Savannah Monitor, (and sell exo terra more bulbs) but you can still achieve great results with just a couple different bulbs.

The Neodymium is a wider beam then the Tight Beam so it heats a wider area of the cage as opposed to the tight beam that gives off a stronger more direct beam. Both work great as basking bulbs. The tight beam is just more direct intensity.
As for the fluorescent bulbs you can pretty much use any grow light or full spectrum fluorescent lighting. I use shop lights with 4' fluorescent grow light tubes. Works great. If you want to use the infra red at night to increase the night time temp in the cage that's cool too. I do that in the winter. Keep the average day temp around 80 with the basking spot at around 95-110 and you're good. You MUST and I mean MUST provide a proper basking lamp and site if any light at all.


So i can get the:
Sun Glo Neodymium Basking Spot Lamp (incandescent) during the day
Heat Glo Infrared Heat Lamp (incandescent) during the night

and use both the 2.0 and 10.0 or you mean use one or the other??
 
Keep the 10.0 and use that with a Basking Lamp during the day. If you need to increase the night time temp use your heat pad on the basking side or an infra red on the basking side.

If you can afford it and have the space, adding the 2.0 to that mix would make him happier.
 
alright last question is that the Sun Glo Neodymium
Daylight Basking Spot Lamp, on the charts they give it has no UVB, but thats still the one i want to run with the 10.0 UBV desert?
 
I just looked them up and they are only 12$ shipped so thats not bad at all, also i noticed it said in the manual to put the UVB 10.0 20" away with no mesh screen and mine are about 10" away so that could be a problem too

So im going to use the 10.0 UVB full spec mixed with the Sun Glo Neodymium
Daylight Basking Spot Lamp and that should be pretty good then eh?

thanks for the help i been reading a ton and kind of mixed up on what lights i need considering theres like 50 million different ones.
 
sellershotts84 said:
alright last question is that the Sun Glo Neodymium
Daylight Basking Spot Lamp, on the charts they give it has no UVB, but thats still the one i want to run with the 10.0 UBV desert?

Yes, the Sun Glo has the UVA, the 10.0 has the UVB. You use them together.
 
sellershotts84 said:
I just looked them up and they are only 12$ shipped so thats not bad at all, also i noticed it said in the manual to put the UVB 10.0 20" away with no mesh screen and mine are about 10" away so that could be a problem too

So im going to use the 10.0 UVB full spec mixed with the Sun Glo Neodymium
Daylight Basking Spot Lamp and that should be pretty good then eh?

thanks for the help i been reading a ton and kind of mixed up on what lights i need considering theres like 50 million different ones.

Mesh screen can act as a light filter, so put it closer.

Yes that light setup will be fine.

NP, that's what this forum is for :)
 
I increased the heat and humidity a slight notch and he seems to be doing better today, but now the eye problem still is ongoing, he will not open his eyes and all now he even eats with his eyes closed. the only way i can get him to open his eyes is by turning him upside town and then he opens for a slight second.

i was reading online that for infection, Buytil can be giving in 5mg dosages to rid the infection, any vets out there know any thing about that.

as i stated before there are no vets around my area that do exotic pets so i have to self treat this one.

thanks
 
also the uva basking i got was 25 watts, it heats the basking spot to 115-125 per infer red tester. 25 watts sounds low but i suppose its what i need since cage is not very deep
 
sellershotts84 said:
also the uva basking i got was 25 watts, it heats the basking spot to 115-125 per infer red tester. 25 watts sounds low but i suppose its what i need since cage is not very deep

Post a picture of your setup please so I can tell you exactly what to do.
or you can email it to me - [email protected]

First things first, 25watts is WAY too low. I don't care what your temp gun says it's not nearly enough for a 24" tall cage. You're gonna need at least 100watts if not more.
 
i measured it and its only 13 inches tall, but when i got home from work the lizard somehow popped the top and got out of the enclosure. It took about 2 hours to find him and he was in the closet hanging in my jacket. When i pulled him out he was wide awake pissed and eyes wide open acting normal, i set him on my lap for a bit and eyes still open. Put him in the enclosure and he was back to closing his eyes again, i turned the 10.0 uvb off and he begin to open his eyes so i think its got something to do with this light, but not 100% sure because last night he would not open them and the 10.0 was off. It must be hurting his eyes somehow or something in the cage is affecting his eye sigh. I will dig my cam out and get some pics,

grammar and punctuation is bad but im in lack of time:)
 
Lighting

Lights labeled Full Spectrum are referring to visible light spectrum only not UV or infra red. UVB bulbs also have UVA in sufficient amounts. it is better to use lower wattage bulbs than higher wattage. By that I mean say 3 50 watt bulbs in a row as opposed to a single 160 watt. You can get the bulbs closer to the animals and it creates a baking spot that allows them to get their whole body under it. Also the lower watt bulbs mean the monitor wont burn itself if it comes in contact with them. If I am having heat issues but light is sufficient then I like to use either ceramic heat emitters or radiant heat panels.

Digby Rigby [email protected]
__________________________________
Specializing in Blaptica dubia bulk lots for 5 years
 
Hi Tim, I might have some advice for you. I just took my savanah to the vet about a week ago for a similar problem. He sometimes would walk around with his eyes closed and rarely opens his left eye.

Heres what the vet said. There are usually 1 of three reasons for reptiles not openning their eyes.

1) They have something in them, dirt, food, whatever. Should be obvious
2) They are dehidrated. make sure you have enough water for him to submerg in. Also if you have hard tap water, you may want to use distilled water.
3) Not enough vitamins. Sometimes they cant produce enough eye lubricant

If your feeding him primarly insects, or not using any suplaments its most likely vitamins. The vet gave me a puppy vitamin suplament for like 10 bucks, that I inject into the mice I feed him which has fixed the problem for me. She said any vitamin suplament with a lot of vitamin A should do the trick.
 
Also you may want to read this
http://www.faunaclassifieds.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104802

I just found this. My lizards eyes have gotten better with vitamins but they are not completely better, they are still closed most of the time when he is lying down in his cage. I have one of the mentioned bulbs and I am going to leave it off for a few days and see if he gets better.
 
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