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Solomon Island Tree Boa Help!

J

JPalomera11

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I work in a lab with a beautiful SITB, however the biggest issue is that she has not ate in over a year. We have tried multiple things frogs, lizards, pinkies and mouselings of different sizes. Housing changes so I'm curious if anyone is experienced enough to give me multiple solutions to fix this problem.
 
Hi, I'm in Fiji with Fiji Boas, very closely related Candoia bibroni bibroni.

Check my blog for some info.

Here we are feeding them essentially their normal food.

Mine take house geckos and day old chicks with the most enthusiasm, also chicken portions rolled around in minced up gecko.

I've heard of people keeping them in captivity scenting mice with the inside of fried chicken skins with great success (I kid you not :eek:).

Mine went off feed for 3 months last year when the weather was cold (night time below 20oc / 70oF) AND there was mating going on.... This year it was cold but there was no mating and they all kept eating...

Do you have a male anywhere near her?

What is her age/ weight/ length/ condition? Any pics? :)
 
I will post some pics of her, but weather does not seem to be a problem. I am in California in a desert region where the temperatures hit about 100 degrees. We have the a/c unit on constantly for the animals we have which is regulated at 75 degrees with her cage being 80 humidity and 80 degrees hot. No SITB males are nearby, we have scented lizard poop on mice and frog poop on mice so we have exercised all options. We used pacific tree frogs recently so hopefully we can get our hands on some more frogs.
 
Sounds like it should be right.

Our natural temp range here is 32oC summer high with an average 28oC (82oF with high of around 89oF), winter low of 18 - 19oC (65oF) with an average of 24oC (75oF). The eat less in winter than summer.

I did have a friend with a large female who never ate for him in over 12 months, and he tried most foods we are told they eat naturally - from birds, and rodents to geckos of various sizes. The only time she showed any interest was when he put food in her water bowl, so she may have been eating fish before she was caught, but I don't think he ever tried that. She didn't seem to lose weight, but eventually he released her.

Is yours losing weight or holding steady? Where was she before you had her? Do you know what she was eating then?

Have you tried birds? Here in nature they eat Mynah birds (about the size of a small starling), and, as I say, mine love day old chickens.
 
Just another thought - you say you are in a lab, so I presume you are interacting with her during working hours.

The Fiji boas, and I presume the Solomons, are nocturnal - mine eat best in the early evening when they are naturally most active - I usually feed them around or after sunset.

Might be worth staying late and trying....:)
 
No not yet we actually rearranged her enclosure, so we are getting her used to the environment tonight will be the first attempt at trying to feed her at night so wish me luck. I will take my camera today to get a picture of her and the enclosure itself. Thanks for the generous advice
 
Depending on the size of her you might want to try feeder minnows or earthworms. Younger SITBs will sometimes take those. You can also try scenting smaller mice with tuna fish... I know weird. Definitely leave the food in overnight... some like to eat when no one is around and you should definitely provide a hotspot around 90 F during the day. If you're interacting with her, able to see her during the day, you might want to put her in an area where there is a photoperiod (12 hours of light) but sealed off from people walking by.
 
Hey sorry guys it took so long been supremely busy with school and fixing her habitat forgot about posting the pictures.

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No luck on the eating either (frogs were a no go), she is going to get relocated or euthanized which is ever seems more favorable to the vet she/he is going to be looked at.
 
Its a good looking Waigeo Island tree boa. Sorry to hear she is still not eating. Your best bet (I'm sure you may have tried already) is just to leave live feeder geckos in the tank. If you decide to relocate her... I'd love to give it a try to get her feeding. I keep several Candoia species.
 
She is a beauty.

My C bibroni bibroni use floor hides during the day and climb the branches at night, so not sure the up the tree enclosure is necessary, but interesting to know if she uses it.

Also I'd black out the back and sides to reduce visual disturbances so that she feels more secure in the tank.

Don't euthanise her unless she's suffering please - as "Bioteacher" says there are Candoia enthusiasts out there who would work with her I'm sure, and I've come across those who didn't eat for a year before..
 

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Yeah but ultimately it is not my decision. I am only a Laboratory Technician my professor runs the lab, so it's her decision. She opted to give me another month to get it a last go. When I attempted the nocturnal feeding, she was on her branches and rubber pipping. I may get black construction paper for her enclosure today and attempt it. As far as food geckos will be on my list now. Thanks everyone for your opinions.
 
JPalomera11 said:
Yeah but ultimately it is not my decision. I am only a Laboratory Technician my professor runs the lab, so it's her decision.
Click to expand...

I get that - I was a lab tech once. However maybe introduce her to the thread and let her know there are people out there who would give the snake another option. I know at least 6 people on this forum who are into Candoia species and I can contact them if you're thinking of putting her up for adoption.
 
I have a technique that has worked on some of my more stubborn snakes, it depends on how she handles - it's not force feeding, it's an "assisted start". Works well with dead geckos.

Not something I'd normally suggest, but if the option is euthanasia it's worth a go.

Handle her for a while so that she's calm. GENTLY hold her behind her jaw (at the side of her head). Nudge her mouth GENTLY open with the nose of the gecko - as they have such a sloped "overbite" you can do this fairly easily by GENTLY pushing upward on her snout.

When her mouth opens put the gecko head about half way inside and hold it there. She will probably freeze. You freeze too. DO NOT attempt to force it down her throat!

Often after my snakes have felt/tasted it inside their mouth they start to eat it voluntarily.

Tips:get yourself into a comfortable position as you may have to hold still a while.

If she"gags' and wants to thrust it away let her, don't force it.
 
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