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Starting difficult graybands

WJS Herps

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Hello all -

Sorry if this gets a bit long, but I've had a difficult time finding good, specific info on getting difficult graybands started and thought I might share some of my experiences to help others.

The going theory (from what I've seen) is that baby graybands feed fairly exclusively on genus Sceloporus lizards (spiny lizards) which are common in their range. So, a baby alterna may be understandably reticent about eating a pinky mouse offered as a first meal.

After owning adults, I bought a couple of baby River Road graybands a couple of years ago. They were not yet feeding, but were large, heavy babies so I had some room to work. I had past breeding experience with green tree pythons, so I decided to take the plunge.

As it turns out, these babies were pretty easy to get started. It was suggested to me by a friend to feed them after my 3 hour car ride from Daytona. For some reason the vibrations can act as a stimulant. Sure enough, they both took a frozen thawed pink. The male ate from there on out. The female was a bit trickier. A car ride here and there and scenting using anoles (I put a large anole in a plastic bag, dropped a pink in and rubbed it all over the annoyed lizard). She took to this very well.

On another occasion, I had a young female Christmas mountains that would not eat pinks scented or otherwise. So, I tried braining a pink and she took it right away. After a few brained feedings, she began eating straight pinks.

This year, I produced my first clutch of graybands. Of the group of 6, none would eat an f/t pink placed in its shoebox. Next I tried cupping. One immediately ate, no luck with the other 5. Next I tried scenting with a live anole. No apparent interest. These baby graybands were very robust and fat from yolk. I don't know if this may have affected the situation. By this point, a bit more than two weeks had gone by. All still looked plump and healthy, but I did not want to let them get weak or skinny as I continued feeding trials. So, I gave each baby a piece of assist (basically forced)mouse tail, followed a few days later by a piece of rat tail. The babies have continued to hold weight nicely and the tail pieces seem much less stressful than larger foods.

They all went with me to Daytona and when I brought them back I tried the "right after a car ride" trick. No luck this time. Next I got the trusty bb gun and killed a large male brown anole. I split the gut and rubbed pinks in the body cavity. Success! Two more babies ate, no interest from the other 3. Said anole is in the freezer for further trials.

This is the point I'm at now. The three non-eaters will get a piece of rat tail tomorrow night and I will again offer gut scented pinks to all. I will cut back on scenting with the two that ate gradually until it is not necessary. I may try tuna juice with the other three ate some point as I have heard it sometimes works as well. The good thing is I have a new clutch of okeetee corns and my yearling Florida kings, so nothing goes to waste.

I hope this might be able to help someone out there - if you have anything to add, please do... In my experience grayband babies require patience and creativity.

Cheers!
 
I can get ou some curly tails for scenting. They always work wonders for me. I didn't know you were fairly local, you don't have any curly tails up your way do you?
 
Hi Charles. Yep, I'm about 50 miles north of Tampa. Never seen a curly tail up here. I remembered you saying they are all over down there. I'm setting up at the Tampa show if you're going to be up here for the show I'd grab a few from you and give them a shot.

Bill
 
Back when I used to work with baby graybands, I had very good success with mediterranean and turkish geckos. Also local brown backed skinks would work well too.

One little trick I tried that seemed to help the success rate was to buy clay flower pot bottoms, drill a 1 inch hole in the bottom, then put it into the cage upside down with the baby grayband, after soaking the pot for several days. I would then put a frozen thawed pink on top of this clay pot near the hole entrance, and often gray bands would take their first pinks in this manner. Something to do with the elevated humidity and perhaps the clay itself.

But after a while they just wore me down, and I got rid of them all. Beautiful animals, but the pain-in-the-ass quotient was way too high. Quite honestly, I'm rather surprised that selective breeding for feed response for mice hasn't pretty much weeded out this feeding issue.
 
When I was into the Grays it seemed like none of them ate back then. I used to use green anoles. After spending way more money and time than I should have on feeding these damn things I found that just using the shed skin from them worked. I just simply put a drop of water on the pinks head and then placed a small piece of shed skin on. The shed would then stick to the pink and eventually I just made the piece smaller until it wasn't necessary anymore.
 
Here's something I use with my Thayeri....

I produced this list of steps years back when I had reluctant Thayeri hatchlings. It has worked for me...

First of all....make sure the temperature is in the 80s...Let the snake know it is Summer...

Step 1: Offer live newborn pinkie. If it is refused then....

Step 2: Offer brained, live pinkie. The brained pinkie is cut from snout to base of skull. If it is taken, reduce the incision each time until it is no longer necessary to stimulate feeding. If it is refused then....

Step 3: Offer the brained, live pinkie under a dark, non translucent bowl with the stubborn feeder. Cover the snake and the prey and check in about 30 minutes or so. This has been the most effective method w/o scenting involved. If the snake refuses then...

Step 4: A lizard has to be obtained. I use Med. House Geckos. Freeze the lizard in a deep freeze right away for about 1 hour. Get a live newborn pinky and put the frozen mouse and a pink in a container together and remove from freezer. The warmth of the pinkie will absorb the scent as the lizard thaws. Place it under a dark bowl with the snake and check in about 30 minutes or so. If the snake refuses then....

Step 5: Get the lizard and cut its abdomen open. Dip the head of the pinkie into the guts of the lizard. Place some skin from the lizard on the pinky's head and place under the dark bowl with the snake. If this fails then....

Step 6: Most people would go ahead and repeat all the steps above for about 6 to 8 weeks until they get results. If the stubborn feeder does not feed then drop its temps to around 55 or 60 degrees for about 6 to 8 weeks. After removal from the temps repeat all the steps above. Only do this if the hatchlings have good weight to them...

Other people would feed then small lizards or lizard parts. I have had luck feeding them about 4 to 5 lizard meals then scenting pinks with such lizards. I have also had luck hibernating and then feeding. Remember if you start forcefeeding you will have to continue to do so to keep weight on the snake . It also stresses the snake out and it is harder to get them to start feeding on their own. Also, forcefeeding will kick in their metabolism and they will need to keep eating to keep on weight. They can live for months on the eggyolk absorbed in the egg. Just letting them wait on a winter cooling usually helps alot for spring feeding. I hear of people forcefeeding mouse tails successfully, but I have never even attempted it. The only force feeding I have done has had a low percentage of success. I have blended pinkies and used pinky pumps. I have even used Veal Gerbers baby food mixed with Pedialyte and Multivitamins successfully, but again it stressed the snake.

Finally a friend reminded me of an old trick I'd forgotten about. It really works better for cornsnakes but it did the trick for me in this instance. I dipped the pinky in chicken broth. She took it the first time.

I have lot's of success simply tease feeding thayeri with a F/T pink. Hold the snake in your left hand at mid-body, grab a pink with foreceps and tap the snake on the nose and neck with the pink. Once the snake grabs the head, release the pink, let the snake dangle for a few seconds with the pink in his mouth, then very slowly lower the snake into his shoebox....and DON'T MOVE! Once the head is down the throat then you can step back or put the box back on the shelf without the snake spitting it out. I recommend dimming the lights too....don't tease feed under bright light. Good luck. DV


I've even used the car ride trick as well as removing all water in their enclosure for many days then place a wet live pinky in with a hatchling under a bowl....

Hope this helps
 
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