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stopped eating

Different UTHs operate at different temperatures, ranging anywhere from about 95` to over 110`. The easiest way to regulate them is using either a thermostat or rheostat (there are numerous discussions on here about that - do a search to find them). The quickest and easiest way to remedy the problem is to move the hide so it is not directly over the UTH. As for why it is suddenly a problem - it could be any number of reasons, ranging from the obvious to the obscure. A few possibilities:
- it always was a problem, you just didn't notice
- you moved the hide so it is more affected than before
- external heat sources (room heat, sunlight, the use of a heat lamp) that raise overall cage temps, increasing the effect of the UTH
- problem with the UTH (sometimes they die, sometimes they fry)
- karma
 
just out of curiosity, does your thermometer have a probe? much easier (and highly valuable) to move the probe to various places so you can get simultaneous readings...ie cool & hot spots. The other benefit is that they usually offer high/low readings, which are also useful
 
If you haven't been taking the temp directly where he's laying (on the floor under the substrate) it could have been too hot all along. I don't recall you saying, do you actually have it on some sort of thermostat/rheostat? Does he have a hide available on the cool side, and what is the temp there if he does?
 
i have a hide on both sides of the tank. they are different sizes because one came with the tank and one was what i had for him when i first got him. no probe on the thermometer but i have placed it next to his hide all day long and when i take him out i put it under his hide just to get a temp reading of what it is in his hide. no thermostat. the temp was never over 85 until last week. i think it is karma.
i switced his hides and that brought the readings down about 10 degrees cooler on the warm side.
when i had the smaller hide on the warm side the readings were perfect. 88-92 on the warm side, 78-85ish on the cool side. humidity about 40%.
 
Scott, if you don't have the UTH on a thermostat, it simply isn't safe....no karma to it. Even if your thermometer, sitting on top of the substrate, next to the hide, showed only 85, the actual temp inside the hide, where the heat is trapped, and directly on the floor, is going to be MUCH higher.
 
tried feeding friday. showed interest but no strike. looks thinner then usual but still feels fine. nothing unusual feeling. snake seems happy and content. he is about the size he normally is 2 or 3 days after feed.
 
tstrenuous10 said:
tried feeding friday. showed interest but no strike. looks thinner then usual but still feels fine. nothing unusual feeling. snake seems happy and content. he is about the size he normally is 2 or 3 days after feed.
Click to expand...

Don't worry yet, just keep improving your temp control and humidity issues. Get that thermostat and hook it up. Once your environment is dialed in, your snakes feeding should start again.
 
yeah i thought it would pick up after the shed. that was a suprise to me. just woke up one day and saw a shed and the snake looked good. thinking about trying live tonight. wouldnt take frozen earlier today.
 
well i checked this morning and the mouse was gone. first time i have left the mouse in there and it actually disappeared. usually its still there in the morning. couldnt see MUCH of a difference in size but it was large enough to tell the mouse was inside. guess my snake no longer wants to strike. got lazy. just wants to be fed......sounds familiar hehehehehehe
 
snake at today. didnt even take much time either. put the mouse in and it was gone before i knew it. I guess he got over the "i dont want to eat" phase.

After my snake had fully taken the mouse in it didnt create much of a noticable bulge. If you didnt know i fed the snake you probably wouldn't see it. I put a second mouse in to see if he will take that. should i just TRY to offer bigger next time? my snake is about 8 months old feeding on small mice.
 
Unfortunately, the age doesn't tell alot with regard to what it can eat...or what you should offer it. At least not without knowing the size of the snake. I have a group of 05s here. Had them all the same amount of time (give or take a few weeks), and they range in weight from 100 grams to over 600 grams. Obviously, the big ones can take more (or bigger) items per meal
 
and without a scale i cannot tell you the weight but what i CAN do is post a picture of the mice he eats and then post a picture of him 3 hours after he has eaten along with a recent length measurement. could you make a rough estimate as to size from that?



how did you get an 05 to 600 grams? how often do you feed? i was told once a week was good and i thought it was YOU who told me that. Tried 5 days but that seemed too much for my snake. stopped taking food so i reduced it back to once a week.
 
I fed them...at intervals of anywhere from 5-10 days (5-7 initially, occasionally I skipped a feeding, now 7-10 days). As they grew, if I didn't have big enough mice, I offered 2 smaller ones.
As for the pics, the best way to do it is to put something in for size reference (use a dollar bill).

Oh, and that was me that said that earlier in this thread...but that was specifically regarding your frequency of offering food to a nonfeeding snake.
 
I have '05ers ranging from about 200g up to 580g, depending on what part of 05 they were hatched, and how well they eat...I had a couple of "slow starters"....the oldest being an April '05 baby.
 
yea i was going to put something like a roll of quarters or a dollar bill or stapler next to the snake along with the mouse i feed so you can put it in prespective.
 
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