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TORTOISE LOVERS!!! Is there a perfect tortoise?

nickybpatrick

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Yeah I'm a big turtle fan but where I'm from they are all wild and I like to keep them that way. I catch Soft, Snappers, and painters all the time.

But I,ve always wanted a tortoise! They are really sweet and I can't really handle a huge tortoise. So what I really need to know, DO SMALL TORTOISES LIVE AS LONG AS BIG OR GIANT TORTOISES? 2 ARE THERE ANY ILLEGAL TORTOISES?, IS A SPIDER TORTOISE ILLEGAL? HOW BIG AND HOW LONG CAN A LEOPARD TORTOISE SURVIVE?

I live in Nebraska where it freezes, Can they hibernate indoors?
Or do tortoises do that?

ALSO DO YOU HAVE TO HAVE ANY PAPERS OR SHOTS WHEN OWNING A TORTOISE?

I really am interested in purchasing a hatchling or yearling
npbkcb@yahoo
 
I'll cast my vote for the Redfoots.
I've been keeping them for several years, and in my opinion, they are the perfect tortoise.

1. They stay at a manageable size.
2. In my opinion, they are the most personable of all of the tortoises.
3. They are not diggers. They won't tunnel under your house.
4. They are easy to care for.

Regarding your other questions:

Yes, you would bring your Redfoot indoors for the winter. Realistically speaking, if you're planning to start with a young tortoise, it would be at least 3 or 4 years before you would have him staying outside unattended anyway.

There are no specific medications required. Of course, like any other pet, a vet visit would be in order if a problem should arise. I've kept my Redfoots for about 6 years and have not had the need yet to take them to the vet. They are hardy animals.

It is doubtful that you will need any special permits unless you plan to exhibit or sell. I would suggest that you check with the Fish and Game Agency in your state. As far as county and city ordinances, I don't recall ever hearing about regulations governing tortoises. They are generally more concerned with snakes.

If, when it's said and done, you do decide to go with a Redfoot, I have a small caresheet that I wrote, that I'll be happy to share with you.

Good luck with your search for the perfect tortoise.
 
Yes I do.
I have one adult pair and two "youngsters" (4 & 5 years old) on the way up.
They are all family pets, but the adult pair does produce 4 or 5 clutches of eggs each year.

I'll be happy to answer any questions that you might have about the species.
 
I was reading on a website that says Redfoot are protected or something, I just want to make sure I'm not breaking the law.

Do you have any hatch or yearlings? For Sale?

Besides the basic what is the most important thing to have for Redfoots?

The heat lamp? Is that a must have?
 
nickybpatrick said:
I was reading on a website that says Redfoot are protected or something, I just want to make sure I'm not breaking the law.

Do you have any hatch or yearlings? For Sale?

Besides the basic what is the most important thing to have for Redfoots?

The heat lamp? Is that a must have?


No, they are not a protected species. One word of caution however, they are regularly imported. Be sure to ask whether or not any that you are interested in are captive bred.

No, I do not have any available at this time. I'm expecting my next clutch of eggs in August, so it will be the beginning of the year before I have any available.

I did receive a pricelist from Marcus Cantos yesterday and he shows having some available. I can hook you up with him if you like.

Here are some of the basics for care:

Mike Greathouse said:
Housing:

Tortoises are very curious creatures and will explore every inch of their living space. I use a relatively Spartan setup for the babies, which provides for easy cleaning.
Some people go the other route and heavily decorate their enclosures with plants, multiple hides, etc. My best advice is to do what is pleasing to your eye, but yet allows for easy cleaning. The tortoises will defecate every day, so ease of cleaning is a major factor for both the health of the tortoise and for odor. My setup for the babies is as follows:

I utilize 36" mortar boxes as an enclosure. They have smooth edges, are opaque, and are easy to clean. These are available in several sizes at most DIY stores such as Home Depot. They have several advantages over conventional cages. They are very inexpensive - about $10.00 to $12.00. They are black which prevents the tortoises from seeing too much outside of the enclosure. As I said, they are very curious and if they see things outside of their enclosure, they will do their best to go and investigate. They have rounded edges, which help to prevent the babies from flipping over as they explore the perimeter. They are lightweight and very easily cleaned. I simply line the bottom with newspaper, which can be changed out daily or as needed. With regular cleaning, you will never notice any odor from the tortoises. I also suggest regular baths. Bath-time is a great adventure and is an excellent exercise for bonding with your tortoise. I try and let them soak for 20 minutes or so at least every other day. They love this playtime and will usually defecate while in the water, which helps keep their enclosure that much cleaner.

Lighting is provided via both UVB lighting and natural sunlight. I try to give them some outside time in the sun every day. The sunlight and fresh air has to be beneficial.
I spend a great deal of time with the babies - I produce a relatively small number of them each year so one on one care is easily provided. The babies receive daily attention in the form of an evening bath / playtime session. I have found this to be very helpful in rearing young tortoises that are comfortable with humans and have outgoing personalities.

They are provided with a hidebox and a shallow water bowl for drinking and soaking. The temps are maintained in the high eighties in the day down to the low eighties in the evening. During the winter months, these will drop a few more degrees, but I try and keep it relatively stable. The ambient humidity is around 60%, but the babies are misted several times a day. I make an extra effort to keep the babies well hydrated, as they are prone to dehydration.


Diet:

I provide a varied diet based on 80% leafy greens and 20% fruit including the following items:

Greens:
Collard Greens
Turnip Greens
Mustard Greens
Kale
Romaine (if absolutely necessary)

Fruit:
Papaya (perfect calcium to phosphorus ratio)
Banana (w/ peels)
Tomatoes (sparingly - as treats)
Strawberries (sparingly - as treats)
Seedless Grapes (sparingly - as treats)

I shy away from the pre-packaged foods like Mazuri - they tend to have too much animal protein. About twice a week, I'll sprinkle a calcium supplement over the food. Just make sure you use one with no phosphorous. I feed the babies daily, but skip a day now and then with the adults.

Make sure that fresh water is always available. I use a small clay pot bottom for the larger tortoises and deli cup lids for the babies. As they grow, I increase the size of the water bowl. Just make sure that the tortoises can easily crawl in and out and that they are shallow enough that if the tortoise did manage to flip himself, he would not drown in the water bowl. They are also easily cleaned.

If you have any other specific questions, don't hesitate to ask.
 
Hey Mike, Thanks alot for all the info! I know alot more than I did before.

I really hope to find one in the near future.

Oh yeah, How long is the lifespan of a REDFOOT?
 
I cannot attest to this from personal experience, but it is said that you can expect Redfoots to attain an age of 30 to 40 years. According to Mike Pingleton in his book "Practical Care and Maintenance of The Redfoot Tortoise Geochelone carbonaria in Captivity", the oldest recorded age for a redfoot is 56 years.
 
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