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What size ceramic heat emmiter?

Morbahzon

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Im going to be ordering proper cage this week, but for a week Im going to need to use a glass tank. Only question I have is what watt ceramic heat emmiter should I use in the tank? It will be 14"-15" over the basking spot. I will have flex watt in the new cage, this is just for the week. Just wondered if anyone knows what size ceramic will keep the basking spot at 90, 14"-15" over head.
Thanks
 
Don't do it! Do more research my friend. This is what will happen...

His story is coming up in a second... His name is Tillman. And he's 4 yrs old and maybe 200 grams. He's half dead and I'm working on him right now! This is what happens with that setup!

I'm in the middle of a 4+hr manual shed for the shrewd dude! He's got spunk, so he will live, it was 'off with his head' at first sight. But, we got this!

I swore I wouldn't do 'basket cases' anymore. But, the influx of punting BP's here in Az has me back it!

SERIOUSLY SCREEN NEW OWNERS PEOPLE! I'm begging you, Tillman's beggin you too! :()

Do way more homework on buyers and how to keep snakes properly! Please!
 

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if you MUST use a glass tank...

I have used glass SLIDING screen top terrariums (with a locking pin) for balls and all sorts of other snakes in the past with great success. The trick is to get it set up just right (and it should have been set up before you started to look for a snake :NoNo: ). DO NOT use aquariums with the drop over type tops as snakes WILL get out of them!

For balls in a glass tank you need the appropriate sized under tank heat pad, ideally the Exo-terra "forest" type; ideally on a rheostat or thermostat.
If you use a heat lamp (in addition to the heat pad) to raise the air temp, get the Fluker's brand with the dimmer switch and an in-fared SPOT light.
You will also need two probe type thermometers, cypress mulch bedding and a couple of heavy hides (i think exo-terra makes some that are like fake rock domes with a mouse-hole type entrance), and a water dish the snake can soak in. I locate one hide over the heat and one just off the heat.
I covered the screen with strips of plexi, cut into 1/3 the size of the screen so was able locate the heat lamp in the best location for temperature gradients. Keep in mind that glass tanks lose heat and humidity VERY fast and are very open for a ball. I used to cover the sides and back with cardboard to insulate and create a less open space for the occupants. When the snakes were in shed I would spray them down regularly and keep the humidity high.

I never had any trouble keeping any snakes this way (other than a kingsnake that would nose rub) but it is going to result in a lot of time being spent on daily fine tuning the environment and high energy bills. I moved all my balls into my new ARS rack and the balls are doing great; They really seem to enjoy how hidden they are in the gray tubs. I still have a couple snakes in glass tanks but they will be moved to the rack as they get larger.

Some people will probably disagree that tanks can be used with great success for most snakes but I know they can from my own experiences. The rack is the better way to go for balls though.

Bottom line; if you use a glass tank, spend the time to do it right and get the dang tank set up BEFORE you get the snake.

PS: I used to replace the metal screen with plastic to solve nose rubbing issues.
 
He said the tank was only temporary for about a week. I wouldn't go over 75 watts on the ceramic. Even if the hot spot is in the low 80s. It would be fine for a week. Much better then going to hot. I turn my hot spot down to 80-82 during breeding season, and that lasts for months. Never had a problem.

Caveman
 
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