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whats a good snake

I'll give craigslist a try for the cage buying for decent prices around and near my area e.e where its close for a pickup locally
Maybe this will help...

I am an average bachelor's student, average school hours, and part time job. Room full of reptiles.

General routine...
1. Check water bowls 3 times a day
2. Check temperatures often
3. Every animal has two bowls, while one us washed and dried the other is in use. Bowls are sprayed with an F10 solution before being placed back in the cage.
4. Substrate and cage furniture are checked daily and washed/changed as needed.
5. Wide Masking tape is on each cage that has the following information
- species
- date acquired and source
- DOB
- name
- CBB/LTC/WC
4. Two separate pieces of tape are used to record feeding dates, sheds, and weight.
5. I keep water in gallon milk jugs, this away it's always on hand.
6. Room temp averages about 83F
General maintainance takes probably 15 minutes a day.

Bloods.
1. Misting about 2-3 times a week is working for me so far, I live in a somewhat dry area.
2. Feeding every week for babes and juvenile animals, older ones every 14-30 days depending on who it is.
3. Keep an eye on the water bowl
4. Re-read #3
Total time spent throughout week including Handeling : about 1.5 hours no more than 3 hours.

GTPs/ETBs
1. In adult cages make sure lights are still following 12 hour cycle.
2. Check water bowl and substrate.
3. Chondros: Misting about once a week has been working for awhile but I do have a few that just are not the best shedders in the world and I might mist them twice a week. ETBs: about every other day to every two days for young ones and usually 4 times a week for my northerns...when I have some Basins they will likely be misted daily.
4. Younger ones are obviously misted about 3-4 times a week.
5. Feeding every 7-10 days for young ones, most of my adults eat 2-3 times a month.
Total time throughout the week: about 3 hours counting both species.

Balls:
1. Misting once a week.
2. Most of my balls eat every 14 days after they are over about 250g, before that they ate weekly.
3. Water bowls and substrate.
Total time: probably just a little over an hour.

These times include small Handeling sessions and are just some rough estimates. All in all it's around 10 hours a week of "work" for me I guess.
 
alright, not a too bad of routine with as many animals you have (snake wise) at least its not too much work really for ya ^^. and craigslist ..im gonna look through there when I get back from wyoming and find something bigger and decently priced e.e
 
I would like to caution about a few things;

First, if you are going to use Craigslist make sure your parents are aware of what you are doing and do not meet anyone you contact or who contacts you there alone or without an adult present. There are many legitimate people and items posted on there, but, there are also people who do not have the best of intentions that frequent that site.

Second, beware of getting bitten by the "herp bug". Many people (myself included) have found themselves over committed to large collections. I have in the past found myself caring for hundreds of reptiles trying to juggle the care of the adults, neonates, as well as sales of offspring with work, family, and having a life. I have since come to the conclusion it is better to have a small manageable collection that is enjoyable than it is to keep a large volume. The collection we have now allows us the time to interact with the animals and get to know their individual quirks and behaviors. We no longer breed but rather simply enjoy the individuals we have.

Based on what you have stated recently in this thread I think what you consider to be more commonly kept snakes may be a better approach for you. While some of the species may be considered "pet store stock" in general terms, there are plenty of morphs you will never see in a pet store. I have some new recommendations for you that I believe may be more appropriate for your current situation and skill level:

1) Corn snake: there are many mutations that you will be hard pressed to find in a pet store. Some examples you may find interesting are:

Sunspot motley
Sunspot4.jpg


Okeetee
resOkeetee-2-Graham-Criglow.jpg


Candy cane:
candycane-a.jpg


There are literally hundreds of corn mutations out there. Take some time to see whats out there before ruling them out.

Sonoran Gopher snake: This is one of my favorite pits. They have good temperament, reach a respectable size (6'-7'), and are available in a few morphs.

Albino Sonoran Gopher
albino%20sonoran12.jpg


Normal Sonoran Gopher
808P_affinis1.jpg


Gray Banded King snake: You are unlikely to find these in a pet store though they are commonly kept. I prefer the traditional "Blairs" phase but there is quite a variety out there. Make sure you tell whoever you are going to purchase one from that you are a beginner and need one established on pinkies if you go this route. Once established they are easy to care for and quite gentle.

Gray banded king snake (Blairs)
alterna1.jpg


Gray banded king snake (Alterna)
hue97w00011.jpg


Rosy boa: These are small boas (30"-42") native to the U.S. and Mexico. They have great temperament and are easy to care for.

Rosy boa albino coastal
rosy11.jpg


Rosy boa coastal
M-RosyBoa1.jpg


Rosy boa Mexican
lttrivergatabaja.jpg


Children's or Spotted pythons: These are small (30"-36") Australian pythons that are easily cared for and have nice temperaments. Children's pythons have a tendency to fade and become blotchy as they mature. Spotted pythons are available in a blonde phase, Burmese phase, and albino.

Juvenile children's python
Childrens-Python.jpg


Any of the above snakes have the potential to make a good first snake for you without overwhelming your capability to care for whichever one you choose. All have pretty straight forward husbandry requirements and tolerate handling well once established.
 
alright im thinking about the grey banded kingsnake (thought about them in the past) the candy cane morph of the corn snake is pretty cool and interesting
 
Pmsayi brings a good point. I plan on snakes being a part of my career; however, if I was going into another field or thinking of starting a family in the next 5 years, my collection would not be growing like it is now. I am downsizing a little though just for the sake of space, keeping my projects in line, and being able to know my animals on individual levels.

Between buying and bargain hunting on cages/racks, I find it easier and more rewarding to build your own.
 
EmeraldBoid I dont know how to build my own or at least place the glass in my bf was suppose to build me one but he got too lazy lol and busy soo I had to buy one and yeaa Pmsayi does have a good point

Lucille thanks for the link
 
Hannah,
Here are links for some reptile enclosures:

http://www.boaphileplastics.com/cages.html

http://visionproducts.us/vp12wp/?page_id=18

These enclosures are well within your budget and still leave you plenty to invest in a reasonable snake of your choosing. I can personally attest that these are good quality enclosures that are easy to service (I currently utilize a mix of enclosures including ones that I have custom built, boaphile enclosures, and vision enclosures). I would recommend upgrading to a keyed lock system and having the heat tape pre-installed when ordering boaphile enclosures and investing in a glass panel lock for the visions. I don't recommend attempting to build an enclosure based on your age and skill levels at both keeping reptiles and woodworking.
 
I just wanted to ad that by profession I am a general contractor specializing in in remodeling, carpentry, and custom cabinetry/ built in work. There is no cost savings in building enclosures yourself. I am set up properly to build furniture quality enclosures and have the resources to procure materials at lower costs than most. I have found that properly constructed wood enclosures that will last, usually end up costing me more to build than it costs to purchase commercially available enclosures. When you add the time to design the enclosure, build the enclosure, finish the enclosure, and material costs (much less equipment costs if you do not have it) it is generally more cost efficient to purchase the commercially available products. The only exception I have found in the past to this is with regards to rack systems which can be easily and economically fabricated with basic tools and materials.
 
I like the vision product better, and where did you find the vision link? because I was looking for tanks made for them and they were WAAYYY too expensive and it was something very cheap materials i assume. I found one cage that was small and cost 2,000 and something for it it was outrages!!!
 
Lots of cage manufacturers and options to consider -
there's also Animal Plastics, Neodesha, Proline Cages (northwest constrictors) and one of my favorite low cost cage makers Barrs cages (herpcages).
Check out the BOI (board of inquiry) here on fauna for cage maker reviews to help steer yourself in the best direction.
Good luck with whatever you decide!
 
Do not get a green tree python for your first snake. They are incredibly territorial and mean in almost all cases. I recommend a plain old ball python, they are very calm and can be handled frequently no problem. I wouldn't get a fancy morph or anything expensive till your experienced. If for some reason you mess up and he dies you dont want a thousand dollars down the toilet. Make sure you know how to make a proper habitat too.
 
SnakeLover97 I know I'm highly considering a Carpet python, blood boa and possibly Red tailed green rat snake. I have done A LOT of research on the 3 snakes im considering
 
Do not get a green tree python for your first snake. They are incredibly territorial and mean in almost all cases. I recommend a plain old ball python, they are very calm and can be handled frequently no problem. I wouldn't get a fancy morph or anything expensive till your experienced. If for some reason you mess up and he dies you dont want a thousand dollars down the toilet. Make sure you know how to make a proper habitat too.
Yeahp...terrible temperment...uploadfromtaptalk1406478496656.jpguploadfromtaptalk1406478514052.jpguploadfromtaptalk1406478549033.jpguploadfromtaptalk1406478586801.jpg
 
Good point, individuals can have very different personalities. I have a ball python that must have been a pit viper in a prior life, even at 1500 grams she will tag you while being held.
 
EmeraldBoid in the future my dream snake is a green tree python ... you just got lucky on the temperment probably a bit or you got a baby and worked out its bitting stuff (still a newby too many people say NO GREEN TREE PYTHONS THERE MEAN, nearly every information I read about them said there a display snake only, they stress when handled and always bite). Bcr229 and yes it does depend on there personalitys really even if you buy a ball python still doesnt mean it wont bite you constantly, just depends on personality
 
EmeraldBoid in the future my dream snake is a green tree python ... you just got lucky on the temperment probably a bit or you got a baby and worked out its bitting stuff (still a newby too many people say NO GREEN TREE PYTHONS THERE MEAN, nearly every information I read about them said there a display snake only, they stress when handled and always bite). Bcr229 and yes it does depend on there personalitys really even if you buy a ball python still doesnt mean it wont bite you constantly, just depends on personality
No luck here, just natural tendencies. Chondros, like other arboreals, are alert animals that may not take well to how flighty inexperienced keepers can be...on average though they do not care. I am not going to show you pics of every chondro I have worked with, but I can assure you that anyone who has worked with the species for a considerable time will agree that they are quite mellow in general...likely the same with ball python keepers.

I never recommended them as a starter snake, possibly an intermediate, yes. If it ever came off to you in any other way, then you have my sincerest apology. I did mention that if you are dead set on the species then go for it, but it would not be my first recommendation.

I am sorry, but the fact that you see "luck" as a factor in the nature, health, and quality of a keeper's collection is a little disturbing. Like any hobby, you have to take responsibility for yourself as well as what you're working with. This hobby may not be as expensive or as time consuming as others, but it does require a certain amount of finesse and will that I am afraid "luck" will not afford you.

Good luck with whatever you choose.
 
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