www.herphabitats.com AKA Richard Brooks/ Reptile Information Database

[varnyard]

Anyone have any info on this guy? I have a problem with him using my name on his site: Reptile Information Database, Helping to R.I.D the internet of inaccurate husbandry information. .

Some of the information on these care sheets is mine, but much of this information is just not true. On the top of each care sheet he is saying: Author: Varnyard. I also have a problem with him using my name and information for personal gain, he has this on the bottom of each page:

Did this information help you? Do you want to now help us? Donate Now!

I have screen shots of all of this.

Here is the link:
http://www.herphabitats.com/reptile_information/tegu.htm

At some point this thread might need to be moved to the BOI.

 

[CurtisF]

I have not heard of him, Bobby, nor anyone I talked to in thetegu.

 

[varnyard]

Thanks Curtis!!

I have tried to contact him, I even contacted a Admin on one of the sites that supports that one. I have not gotton a reply.

 

[Seamus Haley]

Given the... copyright information and reprint permission he has on the front page of the reptile information section, I'd say it probably belongs on the BOI right now if you never gave him permission to use your information, or he has edited it heavily enough to ruin what you wrote.

 

[varnyard]

Given the... copyright information and reprint permission he has on the front page of the reptile information section, I'd say it probably belongs on the BOI right now if you never gave him permission to use your information, or he has edited it heavily enough to ruin what you wrote.

Yes it is far from my care sheet now. I agree, it needs to be on the BOI.

 

[varnyard]

Given the... copyright information and reprint permission he has on the front page of the reptile information section, I'd say it probably belongs on the BOI right now if you never gave him permission to use your information, or he has edited it heavily enough to ruin what you wrote.

Lets look at a few facts:

Species: merianae


Other Common Name for the Blue Tegu: Powder Blue Tegu, Blue Albino Tegu, Albino Tegu and Snow Tegu

Remember the Blue Tegu is considered a color phase (morph) of the Argentine Black & White, so all information is the same for both tegus.

The Argentine and Blue Tegu are native to Eastern Argentina, Uruguay, Bolivia, Columbia and Southern Brazil. They live in the tropical rainforests, tropical woodlands and arid scrublands. They are terrestrial but enjoy climbing and swimming when given the chance.

All of the above is false about the Blue tegu. This is also not on my care sheet.
It is not T. merianae, it is unclassified by science.

It is also not found in these areas that I know of, it is found in French Guiana.

Colorization:

Argentine Black and White Tegu while young are black and bright green. Through shedding the tegu color changes until it reaches the adult color of black and white. The Argentine has distinctive spots that form a line down its back.

More false info found on the blue care sheet, blues do not have green heads.

The same is said about the red tegu care sheet, they do not have the green either.

It is also said on the Colombian sheet, The Argentine Black and White is the only one of this group of animals to have green heads.

In addition to the list mentioned previously, your adult Columbian or Golden Tegu might enjoy the following: cooked ground turkey, fresh fish (not from a pet shop, due to the chemicals used in these tanks), baby chickens, grapes, tomatoes, strawberries, melons, and just about any other soft fruit. Bananas can be given as well, but not as a staple diet, only in moderation. This is just a suggested list, each tegu will have his or her own likes and dislikes.

I do not suggest cooked turkey or any cooked meat at all. Tegus do not need cooked foods, except eggs.

Also Colombian tegus are carnivores, unlike Argentines they do not like fruit.

There is much more, but this is a start.

 

[iguanairs]

Slow Down Everyone ..........

Hello,

Varnyard, this is Rich from HC. I own the R.I.D as well as Herp Habitats and Herp Center.

What gives with this thread dude? YOU posted the caresheets I have listed as you. You posted them on Herp Center. You actually posted 2 caresheets. One of them is still on the site and wasn't removed because the one being displayed had more info and replaced it.

The thread I am referring to is here:

http://www.herpcenter.com/tegu/10078-tegu-care-sheet.html (I just undeleted it.)

Lets be realistic here. Why would I add a caresheet, saying its by you (whom I don't know personally) when you are a member of the site? That would just be asking for copyright issues as you are certain to come across it.

When the caresheet above was posted, it was added to the R.I.D. Later on, you submitted the one being displayed now except it was all on one page. All that was done to that caresheet was the separation of the pages. Nothing more except perhaps the taxonomy info if it wasn't already there.

That version replaced the thread one above.

Once i add something someone has posted, we remove it from the site so we know it has been done. The reason the initial submission was still around was because a staff member had soft deleted it and listed this as the reason: Duplicate Post

Soft deleted threads can be undeleted, so that is why you see that thread above.

If you didn't write those caresheets, or add them to HC, then someone else knows your username and password. I never would have added them to that resource when we are trying to get people to read it. I would be asking for those copyright issues.

I am going to remove them though since now they seem to contain bad info and you are claiming you didn't write them. Sorry about the mess, but I would change your password on HC if you didn't post those.

 

[varnyard]

That is correct, this is my care sheet before it was altered by you. Also why did you use my name on the care sheet you changed? I also never gave you permission to use it for personal gain on R.I.D.

Written By Varnyard;

Care sheet for the Tegu. Note some species will differ some on requirements.
This care sheet will be for four of the common species available in the pet trade.

Hatchling tegus will all take the same food up until about one year in age. Of these the Tupinambis merianae, Common name (Argentine Black and White), (Giant Tegu) And the Tupinambis rufescens, Common name (Argentine red Tegu), (Red tegu) will change feeding habits.
The Blue Tegu (It is said to be Tupinambis teguixin, but the classification has not been scientifically determined.) And the Tupinambis teguixin, Common name (Colombian Black and White), or (Gold Tegu) Will stay on a carnivorous diet throughout their life.

Food:
All Tegus are carnivores as hatchlings, which means they only eat meat. Crickets dusted with vitamins dust , Captive raised roaches, Mealworms, Super mealworms, ground turkey dusted with vitamin dust, Pinkie mice and cooked egg (Not raw) scrambled or hard boiled.
Please remember to remove any food that is not eaten right after your tegu has eaten his/her fill. Insects are well known for stressing reptiles. This also will help keep their cage cleaner.
Adult tegus, For the Argentine Black and White and the Argentine red Tegu. They will take ground turkey, cooked egg (Not raw) scrambled or hard boiled, rodents, fresh fish (Not from a pet shop, due to the chemicals used in these tanks), baby chickens, grapes, tomatoes, strawberries, melons, and just about any other soft fruit. Bananas can be given as well, but not as a staple diet, only in moderation. This is due to the high content of potassium (Known for not binding with calcium). Not more than once every couple of weeks. They also tend to have a very high phosphorous levels.
The Blue Tegu, and the Colombian Black and White, or (Gold Tegu) will take all of the above, except fruit. Also I suggest feeding only killed rodents. Live rodents can bite your animal. Dead do not, it is just not worth the chance.
My choice of vitamin dust is Herpitive or Fluker's.
A side note on feeding: Tegus can get cage aggressive. They can get to where they will associate their keeper with food. There are a couple of ways to keep this from happening. The first is to feed your tegu in a separate cage or area than his home. Have the food there when you put him with it.
Another way, would be to feed him at night or when he is in his hide. Then he will not see you with food. The first suggestion is the best for a few reasons. One you handle him every day, which helps with the taming process. Another reason would be to remove all chances of him ingesting substrate. And last, but not least, the food would be fresher than feeding at night.

Water:
Tegus require fresh water on a daily basis. It also would be recommended that their water dishes/bowls be big enough to soak in.

Housing:
Hatchlings will do great in a 20 long tank, but they will outgrow these fast. As an adult they require a much larger enclosure. I house mine outside in a 8 ft x 8 ft enclosure. Inside I use a 400 gallon showcase. If building your own cage, remember that these lizards are terrestrial (ground dwelling), So height would not be a necessity. I recommend at least a 6 feet long, 3 feet wide and 3 feet high.

Humidity:
Tegus require high humidity level 60%-70% for proper shedding as well as proper health. Misting on a daily basis is required. If you have another way to raise the humidity, that is fine. Remember not to have the substrate tacky.

Substrate:
I recommend using cypress mulch, orchid bark, Lizard litter, Repti-bark or eucalyptus mulch. These should not be dusty dry or wet. You can mist them a little to keep the dust down, this will also raise the humidity. Make sure it is not tacky, as to stick to their feet. Also your tegu needs to be fed where he will not ingest these substrates. You do not want him to have a intestinal blockage.

Lighting:
Ultraviolet light with a full-spectrum of light is recommended. Lights that emit UVB is a must for this species of reptile. Ultraviolet lighting is important in the production of vitamin D3, which is necessary for calcium metabolism. There are some people that claim added vitamins of D3 would be a good substitute, however I do not. I do use multi-vitamin dust. But I do not depend on it for a substitute for UV lighting.

Hibernation:
Tegus hibernate up to seven months in the wild. They will also do this in captivity if given the chance. However, tegus do not have to hibernate. If they do not hibernate, they may still slow down on feeding during the normal hibernating season. Note the Argentine species are the only ones to do this that I know of. The Colombians are not known to hibernate.

 

[iguanairs]

Hello,

The caresheet posted, minus the page separation and possibly the taxonomy, was what was donated to us. Herp Center has always had a donation link at the bottom of the caresheets. This has always been the case. If you didn't want there to be a donation link Varnyard, you shouldn't have donated it. Or you should have at least told me you didn't want it.

I didn't alter that caresheet as I have never owned a tego and know nothing about them. If I were to have added anything, it would be he taxonomy and I would be done.

I was directed to this thread by someone that joined to post about it. If there were ever an issue with this, I could have been contacted through either of the site using the PM system or the email. I was never informed there was any issue until it was posted on my site.

Again, I have to go back to logic here. Why would I add your name, someone I don' know, to an innaccurate caresheet when you belong to my site as a member? We link to the caresheets all over the site. Do you honestly believe that I would be o naive to do that in hopes that you didn't see it?

What we had posted for info was what was donated to us for info. I am 30 years old and the father of 2. I don't have time to play games "stealing" peoples info or altering peoples info with bad info and slapping their name on it.

If I were in the habit of doing that, why wouldn't i just write the caresheet myself and slap my own name on it? Doing so would make me look more knowledgeable about more species. I wouldn't give someone else the credit. (See what I mean?)

I resolved the issue before ever even hearing from you Varnyard. I removed it the moment I was made aware that it was being questioned.

You said you contacted someone on HH about it but never received a response. Who did you contact?

 

[Griz]

Guys, this appears to be a rather innocent case. While I do not believe for a second that Bobby would write a care sheet with such inaccurate information, I also do not believe that Rich would post one as that would ultimately defeat his purpose. Where the inaccurate information came from is anyone's guess but there certainly does not appear to be any malice here. From the sounds of it, Rich removed it so all should be well. No need creating any hostilities over something this minor.

Griz

 

[iguanairs]

The only other thing that may have happened, and I am looking into it, is if a staff member editted the thread before I made the templated version. My staff do have editting abilities on the site. I am creating a thread for them to see if any of them may have editted it.

Truth is Varnyard, Griz nailed it. Why would I do this when I am trying to spread good info? It is counter productive.

My concern now is to ensure my sites don't get labelled as "thieves" or "liars". Everything found within the HC Network has been used with permission and we do our best to make sure that inaccurate info doesn't get spread. If this ends up being some bad info being added, I can assure you it was all very innocent and wasn't done maliciously.

 

[varnyard]

This is what I found:

Helping to R.I.D the internet of inaccurate husbandry information.
Reptile Information Database







Tegu Caresheets
Author: Varnyard
This information is a generalization of the needs for the five basic Tegus that are found in the pet trade. Each species of tegu has additional requirements that are breed specific. You can read more about each specific species by using the links at the bottom of the page.Tegus are "new world lizards" found in the tropical rainforests, tropical woodlands, and arid scrublands of Central and South America. Specific species will come from specific areas and will be noted within their caresheet. Tegus are terrestrial (ground dwelling) for the most part, but they do like to climb and swim if given the opportunity. Tegus fill the same ecological niche as monitors, and they are an example of convergent evolution.Of the five major species found today, they divide into two separate categories. The categories separate tegus by the number of loreal scales they have on their snouts (see diagram below). The three species that are most closely related have two loreal scales; Red (Tupinambis rufescens), Argentine Black & White (Tupinambis merianae), and Blue (scientific name has not been determined as of yet). The Columbian Tegu (Tupinambis teguixin) and the Gold (Tupinambis teguixin teguixin) are closely related and each have only one loreal scale. The Gold tegu is a separate species from the Yellow Tegu (Tupinambis duseni), the Blue Tegu is believed to be a color phase (morph) of the Argentine Black & White and the Gold Tegu is believed to be a color phase (morph) of the Columbian Tegu.Enclosure:The basic rule of thumb for an enclosure is twice as long as the length of the reptile and as wide as the reptile is long. Specifics for species will be given within their caresheet. A hatchling can be housed in a 20-gallon aquarium, whereas a juvenile can be housed in a 55-gallon aquarium. If the enclosure is too large for the hatchling or juvenile tegu this can cause stress. Substrate:The recommended substrate is cypress mulch, orchid bark or eucalyptus mulch. The substrate needs to be 6" - 12" deep, as tegus like to burrow. Lighting:Ultraviolet light with a full-spectrum of light is recommended. Lights that emit UVB are a must for this species of reptile. Ultraviolet lighting is important in the production of vitamin D3, which is necessary for calcium metabolism. UVB should be use in addition to calcium with D3 and multi-vitamins. Lighting Cycle:A cycle of 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness is recommended.Heating:Each specific species has their own individual temperature need that will be discussed within their caresheet. An enclosure should be set up in zones. There should be a warn side, cool side and then a basking area. The use of under tank heating (a specific UTH made for reptiles can be used or a heating pad made for humans) is recommended along with the lighting mentioned above. NEVER USE A HEAT ROCK AS IT CAN BURN YOUR TEGU!Water:Tegus like to swim, so the use of two separate water bowls is suggested. Make sure one of the bowls is large enough for the Tegu to use as a pool. Change drinking water daily and pool as needed. Food:One of the most important things to remember is not to offer food that is larger than the area between the tegus eyes. Tegus are omnivorous as adults. They will eat both meat and vegetables. Hatchlings are carnivores and their diet should consist of crickets, small mealworms, and (mice) pinkies. The juveniles diet consists of (mice) fuzzies, large mealworms, crickets and boiled or scrambled egg (chopped). Adults diet consists of mice, large mealworms, crickets, super worms and boiled or scrambled egg, fruit and vegetables. Remember to dust crickets and worms with vitamin/calcium mixture before feeding to your tegu. See individual caresheet for more specific species food list. Adult Tegus diet will be almost equal parts meat and vegetables. Tegus can become very aggressive while feeding. Hand feeding could be dangerous, as the tegu may not recognize the difference between your hand and the food. Humidity:Tegus require high humidity levels of 60%-70% for proper shedding as well as proper health. Misting on a daily basis is required. If you have another way to raise the humidity, that is fine. Remember not to make the substrate tacky with too much moisture, or you may grow molds, which is not healthy for the animals.Hibernation:Tegus hibernate up to seven months in the wild. They will also do this in captivity if given the chance. However, tegus do not have to hibernate. If they do not hibernate, they may still slow down on feeding during the normal hibernating season. Tegus will consume great amounts of food in August to prepare to begin hibernating in September. They will hibernate from September to March and begin eating again in April. Hides:Tegus require hides at both ends of their enclosures. These can be made out of a half log or another safe structure. They can also benefit from a moist hide. Species Specific Information· Columbian Tegu (Tupinambis teguixin) · Golden Tegu (Tupinambis teguixin teguixin) · Argentine Black & White Tegu (Tupinambis merianae) · Blue Tegu (Tupinambis merianae) · Red Tegu (Tupinambis rufescens)



Did this information help you? Do you want to now help us? Donate Now!


Reptile Literature
View All
Article Categories
Main Index Reptile Caresheets Reptile Racks Reptile Feeders Reptile Enclosures How To Guides Miscellaneous Articles Articles Sitemap


Items of Interest






Copyright ©2004 - 2006, Herp Habitats - Richard Brooks. All Rights Reserved.





Helping to R.I.D the internet of inaccurate husbandry information.
Reptile Information Database







Columbian Tegu Caresheet (Tupinambis teguixin)
Author: Varnyard
(Taxonomy)Kingdom: AnimaliaPhylum: ChordataClass: ReptiliaOrder: SquamataFamily: TeiidaeGenus: TupinambisSpecies: teguixinOther Common Names for the Columbian Tegu: Colombian Black Tegu, Colombian Black & White Tegu, Common Tegu, Black Banded Tegu, Golden Tegu (Note that some people spell Colombian as Columbian)Remember the Golden Tegu is considered a color phase (morph) of the Columbian Tegu, so all information is the same for both tegus.The Columbian and Golden Tegu are native to Brazil, Peru, Colombia, Venezuela, Ecuador, Trinidad, Northern Argentina, Guyana, Surinam and French Guiana. They live in the tropical rainforests, tropical woodlands and arid scrublands. They are terrestrial but enjoy climbing and swimming when given the chance.Temperament:The Columbian and Golden Tegu are the most aggressive of the tegus that we are discussing. These tegus, if they feel threatened, will whip their tails and bite. The bite of the Columbian and Golden can mean a trip to the hospital for stitches. This is not a reptile for a beginner. Description:The Columbian and the Golden Tegu are medium size tegus reaching a length of 3 to 3 ½ feet in length. The female of the species is smaller than the male. The body is solid with powerful limbs. The head is large and the snout is tapered. They use their forked tongues to smell by carrying the scent into the Jacobsons Organ located in their mouth. Their tail is longer then their body and is rounded with bands at the end. Tegus have a stress point in their tail to allow break points, so you should never handle a tegu by its tail. Colorization:Columbian Tegu while young are black and bright green. Through shedding the tegus color changes until it reaches the adult color of black and white. Sexual Differences:The only sure way to sex a young tegu is by having it probed by an experienced breeder. There are several physical characteristics to assist in sexing an adult. Adult males will develop large jowls and be brighter in color then females. Males have a larger tail just posterior to the Cloaca. Males have a larger number of Femoral and PreAnal pores. Males also have two button shaped, enlarged scales in the Post-Anal Region.Enclosure:The basic rule of thumb for an enclosure is twice as long as the length of the reptile and as wide as the reptile is long. A hatchling can be housed in a 20-gallon aquarium, whereas a juvenile can be housed in a 55-gallon aquarium. If the enclosure is too large for the hatchling or juvenile tegu this can cause stress. Suggested size for a single adult Argentine or a Blue is 6 x 3 x 3 foot. Temperatures:The Columbian and Golden Tegu requires temperatures between 80-85 degrees Fahrenheit. Cool side should be around 78 degrees Fahrenheit. A basking area of 100-110 degrees Fahrenheit is required. The night temperature can drop to 70-75 degrees Fahrenheit.Food:In addition to the list mentioned previously, your adult Columbian or Golden Tegu might enjoy the following: cooked ground turkey, fresh fish (not from a pet shop, due to the chemicals used in these tanks), baby chickens, grapes, tomatoes, strawberries, melons, and just about any other soft fruit. Bananas can be given as well, but not as a staple diet, only in moderation. This is just a suggested list, each tegu will have his or her own likes and dislikes.



Did this information help you? Do you want to now help us? Donate Now!


Reptile Literature
View All
Article Categories
Main Index Reptile Caresheets Reptile Racks Reptile Feeders Reptile Enclosures How To Guides Miscellaneous Articles Articles Sitemap


Items of Interest






Copyright ©2004 - 2006, Herp Habitats - Richard Brooks. All Rights Reserved.





Helping to R.I.D the internet of inaccurate husbandry information.
Reptile Information Database







Golden Tegu Caresheet (Tupinambis teguixin teguixin)
Author: Varnyard
(Taxonomy)Kingdom: AnimaliaPhylum: ChordataClass: ReptiliaOrder: SquamataFamily: TeiidaeGenus: TupinambisSpecies: teguixin teguixinOther Common Names for the Golden Tegu: Colombian Black Tegu, Colombian Black & White Tegu, Common Tegu, Black Banded Tegu, Colombian Tegu (Note that some people spell Colombian as Columbian)Remember the Golden Tegu is considered a color phase (morph) of the Columbian Tegu, so all information is the same for both tegus.The Golden Tegu is native to Brazil, Peru, Colombia, Venezuela, Ecuador, Trinidad, Northern Argentina, Guyana, Surinam and French Guiana. It lives in the tropical rainforests, tropical woodlands and arid scrublands. They are terrestrial but enjoy climbing and swimming when given the chance.Temperament:The Columbian and Golden Tegu are the most aggressive of the tegus that we are discussing. These tegus, if they feel threatened, will whip their tails and bite. The bite of the Columbian and Golden can mean a trip to the hospital for stitches. This is not a reptile for a beginner. Description:The Columbian and the Golden Tegu are medium size tegus reaching a length of 3 to 3 ½ feet in length. The female of the species is smaller than the male. The body is solid with powerful limbs. The head is large and the snout is tapered. They use their forked tongues to smell by carrying the scent into the Jacobsons Organ located in their mouth. Their tail is longer then their body and is rounded with bands at the end. Tegus have a stress point in their tail to allow break points, so you should never handle a tegu by its tail. Colorization:Columbian Tegu while young are black and bright green. Through shedding the tegus color changes until it reaches the adult color of black and white. Sexual Differences:The only sure way to sex a young tegu is by having it probed by an experienced breeder. There are several physical characteristics to assist in sexing an adult. Adult males will develop large jowls and be brighter in color then females. Males have a larger tail just posterior to the Cloaca. Males have a larger number of Femoral and PreAnal pores. Males also have two button shaped, enlarged scales in the Post-Anal Region.Enclosure:The basic rule of thumb for an enclosure is twice as long as the length of the reptile and as wide as the reptile is long. A hatchling can be housed in a 20-gallon aquarium, whereas a juvenile can be housed in a 55-gallon aquarium. If the enclosure is too large for the hatchling or juvenile tegu this can cause stress. Suggested size for a single adult Argentine or a Blue is 6 x 3 x 3 foot. Temperatures:The Columbian and Golden Tegu requires temperatures between 80-85 degrees Fahrenheit. Cool side should be around 78 degrees Fahrenheit. A basking area of 100-110 degrees Fahrenheit is required. The night temperature can drop to 70-75 degrees Fahrenheit.Food:In addition to the list mentioned previously, your adult Columbian or Golden Tegu might enjoy the following: cooked ground turkey, fresh fish (not from a pet shop, due to the chemicals used in these tanks), baby chickens, grapes, tomatoes, strawberries, melons, and just about any other soft fruit. Bananas can be given as well, but not as a staple diet, only in moderation. This is just a suggested list, each tegu will have his or her own likes and dislikes.



Did this information help you? Do you want to now help us? Donate Now!


Reptile Literature
View All
Article Categories
Main Index Reptile Caresheets Reptile Racks Reptile Feeders Reptile Enclosures How To Guides Miscellaneous Articles Articles Sitemap


Items of Interest






Copyright ©2004 - 2006, Herp Habitats - Richard Brooks. All Rights Reserved.





Helping to R.I.D the internet of inaccurate husbandry information.
Reptile Information Database







Argentine Black & White Tegu Caresheet (Tupinambis merianae)
Author: Varnyard
(Taxonomy)Kingdom: AnimaliaPhylum: ChordataClass: ReptiliaOrder: SquamataFamily: TeiidaeGenus: TupinambisSpecies: merianaeOther Common Names for the Argentine Black & White Tegu: Giant Tegu and Big Headed TeguRemember the Blue Tegu is considered a color phase (morph) of the Argentine Black & White, so all information is the same for both tegus.The Argentine and Blue Tegu are native to Eastern Argentina, Uruguay, Bolivia, Columbia and Southern Brazil. They live in the tropical rainforests, tropical woodlands and arid scrublands. They are terrestrial but enjoy climbing and swimming when given the chance.Temperament:Both the Argentine Black and White and the Blue Tegu are very docile and tame compared to the rest of the tegu family. They should be handled daily from hatchlings and will adapt to humans. They may wiggle and squirm around when handled but usually will not bite. Babies have been known to propel themselves on their back legs.Description:The Argentine is one of the larger tegus reaching a length of 4 to 4 ½ feet in length. Whereas the Blue is considered one of the smaller tegu, reaching a length of 3-3 1/2 feet. The female of the species is smaller than the male. The body is solid with powerful limbs. The head is large and the snout is tapered. They use their forked tongues to smell by carrying the scent into the Jacobsons Organ located in their mouth. Their tail is longer then their body and is rounded with bands at the end. Tegus have a stress point in their tail to allow break points, so you should never handle a tegu by its tail. Colorization:Argentine Black and White Tegu while young are black and bright green. Through shedding the tegu color changes until it reaches the adult color of black and white. The Argentine has distinctive spots that form a line down its back.Blue Tegu babies are black and white. Around 18 months of age they will begin to display their adult color. The shades can be any of the following colors: powder blue, blue, green and platinum. A few individuals display some orange coloration on their underside. Breeders are also working on the following color phase (morphs) albinos and snows. Sexual Differences:The only sure way to sex a young tegu is by having it probed by an experienced breeder. There are several physical characteristics to assist in sexing an adult. Adult males will develop large jowls and be brighter in color then females. Enclosure:The basic rule of thumb for an enclosure is twice as long as the length of the reptile and as wide as the reptile is long. A hatchling can be housed in a 20-gallon aquarium, whereas a juvenile can be housed in a 55-gallon aquarium. If the enclosure is too large for the hatchling or juvenile tegu this can cause stress. Suggested size for an single adult Argentine or a Blue is 6 x 2 x 2 foot. Pairs can be housed in an enclosure that is 6 x 4 x 4 foot.Temperatures:The Argentine and the Blue Tegu requires temperatures between 80-90 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. A basking area of 100-110 degrees Fahrenheit is required. The night temperature can drop to 70-75 degrees Fahrenheit.Food:In addition to the list mentioned previously, your adult Argentine or Blue Tegu might enjoy the following: cooked ground turkey, fresh fish (not from a pet shop, due to the chemicals used in these tanks), baby chickens, grapes, tomatoes, strawberries, melons, and just about any other soft fruit. Bananas can be given as well, but not as a staple diet, only in moderation. This is just a suggested list, each tegu will have his or her own likes and dislikes.



Did this information help you? Do you want to now help us? Donate Now!

Reptile Literature
View All
Article Categories
Main Index Reptile Caresheets Reptile Racks Reptile Feeders Reptile Enclosures How To Guides Miscellaneous Articles Articles Sitemap


Items of Interest






Copyright ©2004 - 2006, Herp Habitats - Richard Brooks. All Rights Reserved.




Copyright ©2004 - 2006, Herp Habitats - Richard Brooks. All Rights Reserved.




Helping to R.I.D the internet of inaccurate husbandry information.
Reptile Information Database







Blue Tegu Caresheet (Tupinambis merianae)
Author: Varnyard
(Taxonomy)Kingdom: AnimaliaPhylum: ChordataClass: ReptiliaOrder: SquamataFamily: TeiidaeGenus: TupinambisSpecies: merianaeOther Common Name for the Blue Tegu: Powder Blue Tegu, Blue Albino Tegu, Albino Tegu and Snow TeguRemember the Blue Tegu is considered a color phase (morph) of the Argentine Black & White, so all information is the same for both tegus.The Argentine and Blue Tegu are native to Eastern Argentina, Uruguay, Bolivia, Columbia and Southern Brazil. They live in the tropical rainforests, tropical woodlands and arid scrublands. They are terrestrial but enjoy climbing and swimming when given the chance.Temperament:Both the Argentine Black and White and the Blue Tegu are very docile and tame compared to the rest of the tegu family. They should be handled daily from hatchlings and will adapt to humans. They may wiggle and squirm around when handled but usually will not bite. Babies have been known to propel themselves on their back legs.Description:The Argentine is one of the larger tegus reaching a length of 4 to 4 ½ feet in length. Whereas the Blue is considered one of the smaller tegu, reaching a length of 3-3 1/2 feet. The female of the species is smaller than the male. The body is solid with powerful limbs. The head is large and the snout is tapered. They use their forked tongues to smell by carrying the scent into the Jacobsons Organ located in their mouth. Their tail is longer then their body and is rounded with bands at the end. Tegus have a stress point in their tail to allow break points, so you should never handle a tegu by its tail. Colorization:Argentine Black and White Tegu while young are black and bright green. Through shedding the tegu color changes until it reaches the adult color of black and white. The Argentine has distinctive spots that form a line down its back.Blue Tegu babies are black and white. Around 18 months of age they will begin to display their adult color. The shades can be any of the following colors: powder blue, blue, green and platinum. A few individuals display some orange coloration on their underside. Breeders are also working on the following color phase (morphs) albinos and snows. Sexual Differences:The only sure way to sex a young tegu is by having it probed by an experienced breeder. There are several physical characteristics to assist in sexing an adult. Adult males will develop large jowls and be brighter in color then females. Enclosure:The basic rule of thumb for an enclosure is twice as long as the length of the reptile and as wide as the reptile is long. A hatchling can be housed in a 20-gallon aquarium, whereas a juvenile can be housed in a 55-gallon aquarium. If the enclosure is too large for the hatchling or juvenile tegu this can cause stress. Suggested size for an single adult Argentine or a Blue is 6 x 2 x 2 foot. Pairs can be housed in an enclosure that is 6 x 4 x 4 foot.Temperatures:The Argentine and the Blue Tegu requires temperatures between 80-90 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. A basking area of 100-110 degrees Fahrenheit is required. The night temperature can drop to 70-75 degrees Fahrenheit.Food:In addition to the list mentioned previously, your adult Argentine or Blue Tegu might enjoy the following: cooked ground turkey, fresh fish (not from a pet shop, due to the chemicals used in these tanks), baby chickens, grapes, tomatoes, strawberries, melons, and just about any other soft fruit. Bananas can be given as well, but not as a staple diet, only in moderation. This is just a suggested list, each tegu will have his or her own likes and dislikes.



Did this information help you? Do you want to now help us? Donate Now!


Reptile Literature
View All
Article Categories
Main Index Reptile Caresheets Reptile Racks Reptile Feeders Reptile Enclosures How To Guides Miscellaneous Articles Articles Sitemap


Items of Interest






Copyright ©2004 - 2006, Herp Habitats - Richard Brooks. All Rights Reserved.





Helping to R.I.D the internet of inaccurate husbandry information.
Reptile Information Database







Red Tegu Caresheet (Tupinambis rufescens)
Author: Varnyard
(Taxonomy)Kingdom: AnimaliaPhylum: ChordataClass: ReptiliaOrder: SquamataFamily: TeiidaeGenus: TupinambisSpecies: rufescensOther Common Names: Argentine Red Tegu, Red Tegu, Paraguay Red Tegu and Roter TejuThe Red Tegu is native to Western Argentina, Paraguay and most of Brazil. They live in the tropical rainforests, tropical woodlands and arid scrublands. They are terrestrial but enjoy climbing and swimming when given the chance.Description:The Red Tegu is one of the larger tegus reaching a length of 4 to 4 ½ feet. The female of the species is smaller than the male. The body is solid with powerful limbs. The head is large and the snout is tapered. They use their forked tongues to smell by carrying the scent into the Jacobsons Organ located in their mouth. Their tail is longer then their body and is rounded with bands at the end. Tegus have a stress point in their tail to allow break points, so you should never handle a tegu by its tail. An adult Red Tegu can weigh up to 20 pounds and has a life span of 10 to 15 years.Colorization:Young Red Tegus appear bright green and black. As the tegu ages the colors will fade and change to a cream or brownish color. Adults will be light pink to cream to medium red. They will develop black spots and bands.Sexual Differences:The only sure way to sex a young tegu is by having it probed by an experienced breeder. There are several physical characteristics to assist in sexing an adult. Adult males will develop large jowls and be brighter in color than females. Females are reddish brown with white spots. Enclosure:The basic rule of thumb for an enclosure is twice as long as the length of the reptile and as wide as the reptile is long. A hatchling can be housed in a 20-gallon aquarium, whereas a juvenile can be housed in a 55-gallon aquarium. If the enclosure is too large for the hatchling or juvenile tegu this can cause stress. Suggested size for an adult Red is 8 x 3 x 3 foot.Temperatures:The Red Tegu requires temperatures between 80-90 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. A basking area of 110-120 degrees Fahrenheit is required. The night temperature can drop to 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit.Food:In addition to the list mentioned previously, your adult Red Tegu might enjoy the following: cooked ground turkey, fresh fish (not from a pet shop, due to the chemicals used in these tanks), baby chickens, grapes, tomatoes, strawberries, melons, and just about any other soft fruit. Bananas can be given as well, but not as a staple diet, only in moderation.



Did this information help you? Do you want to now help us? Donate Now!


Reptile Literature
View All
Article Categories
Main Index Reptile Caresheets Reptile Racks Reptile Feeders Reptile Enclosures How To Guides Miscellaneous Articles Articles Sitemap


Items of Interest






Copyright ©2004 - 2006, Herp Habitats - Richard Brooks. All Rights Reserved.

This is my care sheet below, do you not see how it has changed:

Written By Varnyard;

Care sheet for the Tegu. Note some species will differ some on requirements.
This care sheet will be for four of the common species available in the pet trade.

Hatchling tegus will all take the same food up until about one year in age. Of these the Tupinambis merianae, Common name (Argentine Black and White), (Giant Tegu) And the Tupinambis rufescens, Common name (Argentine red Tegu), (Red tegu) will change feeding habits.
The Blue Tegu (It is said to be Tupinambis teguixin, but the classification has not been scientifically determined.) And the Tupinambis teguixin, Common name (Colombian Black and White), or (Gold Tegu) Will stay on a carnivorous diet throughout their life.

Food:
All Tegus are carnivores as hatchlings, which means they only eat meat. Crickets dusted with vitamins dust , Captive raised roaches, Mealworms, Super mealworms, ground turkey dusted with vitamin dust, Pinkie mice and cooked egg (Not raw) scrambled or hard boiled.
Please remember to remove any food that is not eaten right after your tegu has eaten his/her fill. Insects are well known for stressing reptiles. This also will help keep their cage cleaner.
Adult tegus, For the Argentine Black and White and the Argentine red Tegu. They will take ground turkey, cooked egg (Not raw) scrambled or hard boiled, rodents, fresh fish (Not from a pet shop, due to the chemicals used in these tanks), baby chickens, grapes, tomatoes, strawberries, melons, and just about any other soft fruit. Bananas can be given as well, but not as a staple diet, only in moderation. This is due to the high content of potassium (Known for not binding with calcium). Not more than once every couple of weeks. They also tend to have a very high phosphorous levels.
The Blue Tegu, and the Colombian Black and White, or (Gold Tegu) will take all of the above, except fruit. Also I suggest feeding only killed rodents. Live rodents can bite your animal. Dead do not, it is just not worth the chance.
My choice of vitamin dust is Herpitive or Fluker's.
A side note on feeding: Tegus can get cage aggressive. They can get to where they will associate their keeper with food. There are a couple of ways to keep this from happening. The first is to feed your tegu in a separate cage or area than his home. Have the food there when you put him with it.
Another way, would be to feed him at night or when he is in his hide. Then he will not see you with food. The first suggestion is the best for a few reasons. One you handle him every day, which helps with the taming process. Another reason would be to remove all chances of him ingesting substrate. And last, but not least, the food would be fresher than feeding at night.

Water:
Tegus require fresh water on a daily basis. It also would be recommended that their water dishes/bowls be big enough to soak in.

Housing:
Hatchlings will do great in a 20 long tank, but they will outgrow these fast. As an adult they require a much larger enclosure. I house mine outside in a 8 ft x 8 ft enclosure. Inside I use a 400 gallon showcase. If building your own cage, remember that these lizards are terrestrial (ground dwelling), So height would not be a necessity. I recommend at least a 6 feet long, 3 feet wide and 3 feet high.

Humidity:
Tegus require high humidity level 60%-70% for proper shedding as well as proper health. Misting on a daily basis is required. If you have another way to raise the humidity, that is fine. Remember not to have the substrate tacky.

Substrate:
I recommend using cypress mulch, orchid bark, Lizard litter, Repti-bark or eucalyptus mulch. These should not be dusty dry or wet. You can mist them a little to keep the dust down, this will also raise the humidity. Make sure it is not tacky, as to stick to their feet. Also your tegu needs to be fed where he will not ingest these substrates. You do not want him to have a intestinal blockage.

Lighting:
Ultraviolet light with a full-spectrum of light is recommended. Lights that emit UVB is a must for this species of reptile. Ultraviolet lighting is important in the production of vitamin D3, which is necessary for calcium metabolism. There are some people that claim added vitamins of D3 would be a good substitute, however I do not. I do use multi-vitamin dust. But I do not depend on it for a substitute for UV lighting.

Hibernation:
Tegus hibernate up to seven months in the wild. They will also do this in captivity if given the chance. However, tegus do not have to hibernate. If they do not hibernate, they may still slow down on feeding during the normal hibernating season. Note the Argentine species are the only ones to do this that I know of. The Colombians are not known to hibernate.

 

[varnyard]

Rich B. Check your PMs here.

Thanks!!

 

[varnyard]

Also Rich Z, Dennis, Jay and Ken, there is no need to move this thread to the BOI, I think this can be worked out here.

 

[iguanairs]

No one is questioning if there are differences between the 2. It's obvious there is. This thread is about that not being your caresheet and me adding bad information to it.

If the caresheet were editted, it was done by someone other than me. I have created a thread asking my staff which of them editted it.

When I added it to the template, it was a cut and paste job on my part. It was then added. I was not aware that it had been editted and that bad information had been added. It said you wrote it, and I know you keep these animals, so I had no reason to question anything about it. I simple added it.

If I knew that bad info had been added in, I wouldn't have added it. As I stated before, that would be counter productive. Me adding that page was just me adding another page to the site. It was not malicious in intent. I wasn't even aware that anything was wrong with it.

Had Bob not contacted me about this thread, the caresheets would have still been up. (Until I received the email of course.)

I Just "didn't know".

 

[varnyard]

Well, where to start, I contacted Richard Brooks here and he called me. He seems like a nice guy that got caught somewhere in the middle of this. One of his staff edited my care sheet and added this missinformation to my care sheet. He is looking into it and that care sheet has been removed from his site. I want to also say Richard Brooks is not a bad guy in any way over this, IMO, no harm done.

I will also say, I will support Richard Brook's sites in the futher with no remorse at all. I think what he is doing is great, with all of the wrong information there is out there, it is nice to have a site like R.I.D. we can depend on. I will also be submitting a new care sheet to him with the correct information that he can use on the care of tegus.

 

[iguanairs]

Bobby, I sent you an email to "2".

As stated, it was one of my staff that had editted the caresheet. I had no idea the caresheet had "added" bad info. Once I was notified, the caresheet was taken offline. Bobby will be writing up a caresheet to populate the new R.I.D we have been working on here: Reptile Information Database

Fortunantly Bobby understood that I didn't know what had transpired and this was easily resolved. Its also nice that he is writing a caresheet with factual information for addition.

Sorry about the mixup.

 

[jsrocket]

No one is questioning if there are differences between the 2. It's obvious there is. This thread is about that not being your caresheet and me adding bad information to it.

If the caresheet were editted, it was done by someone other than me. I have created a thread asking my staff which of them editted it.

When I added it to the template, it was a cut and paste job on my part. It was then added. I was not aware that it had been editted and that bad information had been added. It said you wrote it, and I know you keep these animals, so I had no reason to question anything about it. I simple added it.

If I knew that bad info had been added in, I wouldn't have added it. As I stated before, that would be counter productive. Me adding that page was just me adding another page to the site. It was not malicious in intent. I wasn't even aware that anything was wrong with it.

Had Bob not contacted me about this thread, the caresheets would have still been up. (Until I received the email of course.)

I Just "didn't know".

I hate to be a fly in the ointment, here, but you claim to be offering this information to counter all the "wrong and bad information" that's out there on the web, regarding the care of reptiles.

Yet, you publish a page without even reading it? Not impressive in the least.

Ever hear of fact checking or proofreading? Since you can't even spell the word "edited", I doubt your "publishing" career will last long, anyway.

 

[romad119]

I give him alot of credit for the attempt and the project. This incident will just ensure better quality control is done internally. Just remember as you work to correct external problems (bad care sheets, etc. that are out there) to not forget about internal controls. Otherwise you end up being in the same category as what you are working to correct. Overall, stay the course!

 

[iguanairs]

I hate to be a fly in the ointment, here, but you claim to be offering this information to counter all the "wrong and bad information" that's out there on the web, regarding the care of reptiles.

Yet, you publish a page without even reading it? Not impressive in the least.

Every caresheet that is added to the R.I.D "I" have read. Reading a caresheet, without knowledge of the species in question, does nothing for anyone.

Every caresheet is added to a template. The templates are PHP and CSS driven. That means I need to manually remove any of the formatting, and rewrite it using the classes I have defined.

I read EVERY line of EVERY caresheet that has ever been submitted. I have to, if I intend on it looking as fluid as the rest of the site.

No where did I say I didn't "read" the caresheets. I can't possibly edit every caresheet personally or nothing would ever get done on the site. In addition, I am only as useful regarding info as i am with the experience i have with the species.

I handle the "Technical" aspect of the site. Most of the code found within the the HC Network I wrote. The R.I.D found here: NEW R.I.D I wrote from the ground up. I think you can see how the caresheets are all uniform in design. That doesn't happen naturally.

Ever hear of fact checking or proofreading?

Yes, I am well aware of this. THIS is what was the issue! Before an article is added to the R.I.D, it gets spell checked, proofread, etc. by the staff that volunteered to do so. (2 Staff Members.)

The staff member that had taken the Tegu caresheet for proof reading, grammar, etc. thought it was a little short. So they decided to add to it. (Which normally isn't an isse.) The issue is with the info they added. It was inaccurate.

I don't bother with the caresheets until I am informed it is "all set". At that point, I go in and grab it from where it was submitted and I add it to the template.

The system we use didn't show me what edits were made. I didn't know what was submitted and what was added. By my view, and the trust I have for my staff, it was "all set".

Every caresheet that was edited by this staff member is being looked over to ensure there were no other inaccuracies added to any other submissions. I am also developing a new submission method where the original submission is not modifiable. They will need to "copy" the original submission, and then repost it below the original. This will allow me to "see" the changes that have been made between the 2.

Since you can't even spell the word "edited", I doubt your "publishing" career will last long, anyway.

Seeing as my spelling and grammar plays a very small role in this project, and this project is already 2 years old, your comment is not only ignorant, but unfounded.

As described above, I play a small role in the editing of the caresheets. I simply handle the coding.

You need to remember, this is a process, not an event. Errors are bound to occur, errors are bound to be corrected. No one is perfect, which is why we have erasers.

The caresheet was taken down and Bobby is submitting a new caresheet to replace it. Beyond that, what else can be done beyond me NOT writing the word "editting" in any of them?
------------------------------------------------

Thanks Alan, we intedn to "stay the course".