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URI Outbreak

Pythonbreeder99

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Hey guys, I've got a little problem, over the past two months I've had 4 bp's come down with a URI. In my small 30 snake collection (majority balls) it's a borderline pandemic. I've isolated them in another room and put them in high heat and no humidity. It started with my het pied female who has since improved but hasn't 100% recovered, she is no longer angling her head upwards but when she drinks her mouth is cocked open and when I lift her up all the water pours out. So I'm trying to avoid it being spread to the other bp's, I have already removed the water bowls from each tub and put the hot spot to 90. I've moved the valuable ones to another rack to avoid them getting it. So my question to all of you is how can I get rid of the infection in those with is and how can I prevent the others from contracting it?
 
You get rid of the infection by treating it.
You prevent the others from getting it by not cross contaminating AND figuring out what the initial problem was....and fixing it.

A high percentage of RIs start as husbandry issues.
(You should also consider the possibility that there might be something else going on, and that the RIs are secondary.)
 
It started developing after I was shipped a snake with a URI, he didnt go in the snake room, but I may have brought it in with me that day, the innitial infected snake is gone but I am left with the aftermath. I have a nebulizer which I know is a good treatment but I need to know which antiboitics to put into it.
 
RI's can be very serious - I would highly recommend going to the vet and getting a culture ASAP. I got hit with an RI in my collection last year and it effected 8 snakes total - 4 of which died despite mine and my vet's rigorous efforts to save them. 2 fully recovered and 2 are still fighting hard in quarantine. Thank goodness the rest of my collection is safe, but dealing with this really opened my eyes to how serious a little bacteria can be.

Before treating you need to know what you're treating against - but in the meantime, I would get a hold of some F10 and start nebulizing your snakes once or twice a day for 15-20 minutes each session. This stuff kicks butt, and is effective against a broad range of bacteria, viruses, spores and fungi. I got some from my vet, but some other Fauna members have bought it here:

My Safe Bird Store - F10

You mix 1ml F10 with 250ml water, which works as both a nebulizing solution and a cleaner you can spray on surfaces etc.

Antibiotics commonly used in a nebulizer are Amikacin and Ceftazidime - but again, it is important to know what you're fighting before you start using antibiotics (especially antibiotics like Amikacin and Baytril, which are taxing on a snake's system as it is). Ceftazidime is a great antibiotic that is safe to use and has a broad spectrum, if you have to do a shot-gun treatment I would recommend it since not much resistance has built up against it and it doesn't hurt the snakes. It however is not effective against everything, so a culture is still a must. (Besides, why wouldn't you want to know what you're dealing with? If nothing else, the information could help someone in the future.) Many breeders swear by Tylosin which can be bought at most farm stores under the name Tylan-50 or Tylan-200 (different strengths) but it did not work for my situation. It is effective against Mycoplasma and a limited range of gram negative and positive bacterias but doesn't cure everything. Any other antibiotics I mentioned you will need a prescription for.

In the long run, waiting it out will just cause you more heartbreak and financial loss if it ends up being a nasty strain. Some RI's have been cured just by bumping temps up but I do not recommend waiting around and seeing, because it can be something bad and turn into deep-seeded pneumonia in a matter of days and result in the death of your snakes.

Make sure you aren't using any tools from your healthy collection with the sick snakes - wash hands and change clothes after dealing with the sick snakes. My RI started with 2 snakes in my collection that were previously healthy but came down with it due to spilling a water bowl when my AC was cranked and they got chilled. I didn't notice they were sick until I contaminated a few other snakes, since symptoms don't usually become visible until 1-2 weeks after contamination. Good on you for getting the sick ones moved into quarantine, but do monitor your other snakes closely for a period of time before doing any pairings or selling.

Good luck with them, and keep us posted ;)
 
Thank you sooo much Abby, I'll deffenitly be getting some of that F10 and I'll bring the snakes to the vet tomorrow or the day after to get a culture. Thanks you for the advice :)
 
Thank you sooo much Abby, I'll deffenitly be getting some of that F10 and I'll bring the snakes to the vet tomorrow or the day after to get a culture. Thanks you for the advice :)

You're welcome! If you have more questions, ask. If your vet isn't really familiar with reptile dosages, I have some info that could prove useful as far as that goes. You will probably be advised to give shots, which all shots should be given in the upper 1/3 of the body, in the muscle that is on either side of the spine. Your vet should be able to show you how of course. I'm grateful that I have a very knowledgeable vet, but I know not everyone is that lucky unfortunately.
 
RI's can be very serious - I would highly recommend going to the vet and getting a culture ASAP. I got hit with an RI in my collection last year and it effected 8 snakes total - 4 of which died despite mine and my vet's rigorous efforts to save them. 2 fully recovered and 2 are still fighting hard in quarantine. Thank goodness the rest of my collection is safe, but dealing with this really opened my eyes to how serious a little bacteria can be.

Before treating you need to know what you're treating against - but in the meantime, I would get a hold of some F10 and start nebulizing your snakes once or twice a day for 15-20 minutes each session. This stuff kicks butt, and is effective against a broad range of bacteria, viruses, spores and fungi. I got some from my vet, but some other Fauna members have bought it here:

My Safe Bird Store - F10

You mix 1ml F10 with 250ml water, which works as both a nebulizing solution and a cleaner you can spray on surfaces etc.

Antibiotics commonly used in a nebulizer are Amikacin and Ceftazidime - but again, it is important to know what you're fighting before you start using antibiotics (especially antibiotics like Amikacin and Baytril, which are taxing on a snake's system as it is). Ceftazidime is a great antibiotic that is safe to use and has a broad spectrum, if you have to do a shot-gun treatment I would recommend it since not much resistance has built up against it and it doesn't hurt the snakes. It however is not effective against everything, so a culture is still a must. (Besides, why wouldn't you want to know what you're dealing with? If nothing else, the information could help someone in the future.) Many breeders swear by Tylosin which can be bought at most farm stores under the name Tylan-50 or Tylan-200 (different strengths) but it did not work for my situation. It is effective against Mycoplasma and a limited range of gram negative and positive bacterias but doesn't cure everything. Any other antibiotics I mentioned you will need a prescription for.

In the long run, waiting it out will just cause you more heartbreak and financial loss if it ends up being a nasty strain. Some RI's have been cured just by bumping temps up but I do not recommend waiting around and seeing, because it can be something bad and turn into deep-seeded pneumonia in a matter of days and result in the death of your snakes.

Make sure you aren't using any tools from your healthy collection with the sick snakes - wash hands and change clothes after dealing with the sick snakes. My RI started with 2 snakes in my collection that were previously healthy but came down with it due to spilling a water bowl when my AC was cranked and they got chilled. I didn't notice they were sick until I contaminated a few other snakes, since symptoms don't usually become visible until 1-2 weeks after contamination. Good on you for getting the sick ones moved into quarantine, but do monitor your other snakes closely for a period of time before doing any pairings or selling.

Good luck with them, and keep us posted ;)

Would that F10 stuff work good for general cleaning if you were to put a very small amount in with say simple green and used it for cleaning cages? I don't know I was just thinking about well if it kills germs and stuff that good I wonder if it could be mixed to make an awesome general purpose cleaner but I don't know what the instructions say on the bottle as far as if you can or can't mix it with stuff.
 
Would that F10 stuff work good for general cleaning if you were to put a very small amount in with say simple green and used it for cleaning cages? I don't know I was just thinking about well if it kills germs and stuff that good I wonder if it could be mixed to make an awesome general purpose cleaner but I don't know what the instructions say on the bottle as far as if you can or can't mix it with stuff.

Yep it is used as a cleaner :) not sure about mixing it with stuff, but you could clean with it, then clean with your other cleaner if you were worried about it getting canceled out when mixed or something. It is a veterinary disinfectant, great for cleaning surfaces, tools and the like. You can find more information here:

http://www.f10biocare.co.uk/F10factsissue6.pdf

and

http://www.healthandhygiene.net/products_view.php?pid=184

They sell many different types of F10 but most people use the F10sc, from what I've read it is all the same stuff, just had to be marketed as different things for legal reasoning? Not sure.
 
Thanks Abby, sounds like I may have to get some and alternate with simple green maybe use this stuff one cleaning a month to make sure everything is EXTRA clean lol.
 
Thanks Abby, sounds like I may have to get some and alternate with simple green maybe use this stuff one cleaning a month to make sure everything is EXTRA clean lol.

That's what I'd recommend :) Cleaning once or twice a month with the F10 and using your other for usual cleanup. It's a mystery to me why F10 isn't more widely available in the US. It is really popular in the UK.
 
One fatality, my heat in the iso room cut out and looks like my normal female developed pneumonia. She was belly up this morning when I checked on them. I've got a vet apt for Saturday.
 
One fatality, my heat in the iso room cut out and looks like my normal female developed pneumonia. She was belly up this morning when I checked on them. I've got a vet apt for Saturday.

That sucks :( Hope your other sick ones are ok. I'd take her in for a necropsy if you haven't disposed of her already. They aren't that expensive ($40+). If you haven't disposed of her, do not freeze her, put her in the fridge. Freezing isn't as good because when the cells erupt in the freeze/thaw process.
 
Yeah I would definitely do a Necropsy to see what you are dealing with, must be a bad strain of URI. I've only had one die of URI and it was one that came in to me with the URI after bad shipping method (knock on wood hopefully never happens again)! But she had it bad after probably being extremely cold on the journey to my house. Good luck.
 
That sucks :( Hope your other sick ones are ok. I'd take her in for a necropsy if you haven't disposed of her already. They aren't that expensive ($40+). If you haven't disposed of her, do not freeze her, put her in the fridge. Freezing isn't as good because when the cells erupt in the freeze/thaw process.

minus the word when :eek:


Yeah I would definitely do a Necropsy to see what you are dealing with, must be a bad strain of URI. I've only had one die of URI and it was one that came in to me with the URI after bad shipping method (knock on wood hopefully never happens again)! But she had it bad after probably being extremely cold on the journey to my house. Good luck.

:( poor thing. The RI I dealt with turned into pneumonia QUICK, it was awful. I was terrified I would get it from them, that would have been an even worse nightmare! The two of mine who are still being treated no longer have lower RI but still dealing with a little bit of an upper. They are eating and feeling a lot better though, so I know it won't be long :)
 
Before treating you need to know what you're treating against - but in the meantime, I would get a hold of some F10 and start nebulizing your snakes once or twice a day for 15-20 minutes each session. This stuff kicks butt, and is effective against a broad range of bacteria, viruses, spores and fungi. I got some from my vet, but some other Fauna members have bought it here:

My Safe Bird Store - F10

I ordered my first bottle from there earlier this year and the one that arrived was already like a year past the expiration date. The one I got from Pro-Exotics is good to go. There are a few other breeders selling it now but I'm not sure who.
 
I ordered my first bottle from there earlier this year and the one that arrived was already like a year past the expiration date. The one I got from Pro-Exotics is good to go. There are a few other breeders selling it now but I'm not sure who.

Huh, good to know. Like I said, I never bought from her. Last time I checked Pro Exotics, they were out of stock.
 
You get rid of the infection by treating it.
You prevent the others from getting it by not cross contaminating AND figuring out what the initial problem was....and fixing it.

A high percentage of RIs start as husbandry issues.
(You should also consider the possibility that there might be something else going on, and that the RIs are secondary.)

:iagree::iagree:

One thing I have noticed that may be worth noting, is that (imo) a high percentage of animals that are "cooled" for breeding seem to develop an R.I.

Other than that, most R.I.s do seem to stem from husbandry issues.:eek:
 
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