The original that was submitted was confusing and I believe I even spoke to Rich about this before I even progressed at the care sheets at all. I believe the original did not go into specific need of each species, which are different.
And what exactly is the different need she speaks of?
I have noticed another thing; this care sheet we see tonight has been edited and then reposted with my name on it yet again. Looking at the info, it is still not correct. Rich, you could not wait for me to make one for you? You had them edit the old one and put my name on this one as well?
Author: VarnyardQuote:
This information is a generalization of the needs for the five basic Tegus that are found in the pet trade. Each species of tegu has additional requirements that are breed specific. You can read more about each specific species by using the links at the bottom of the page.
Tegus are "new world lizards" found in the tropical rainforests, tropical woodlands, and arid scrublands of Central and South America. Specific species will come from specific areas and will be noted within their caresheet. Tegus are terrestrial (ground dwelling) for the most part, but they do like to climb and swim if given the opportunity. Tegus fill the same ecological niche as monitors, and they are an example of convergent evolution.
Of the five major species found today, they divide into two separate categories. The categories separate tegus by the number of loreal scales they have on their snouts (see diagram below). The three species that are most closely related have two loreal scales; Red (Tupinambis rufescens), Argentine Black & White (Tupinambis merianae), and Blue (scientific name has not been determined as of yet). The Columbian Tegu (Tupinambis teguixin) and the Gold (Tupinambis teguixin teguixin) are closely related and each have only one loreal scale. The Gold tegu is a separate species from the Yellow Tegu (Tupinambis duseni), the Blue Tegu is believed to be a color phase (morph) of the Argentine Black & White and the Gold Tegu is believed to be a color phase (morph) of the Columbian Tegu.
Enclosure:
The basic rule of thumb for an enclosure is twice as long as the length of the reptile and as wide as the reptile is long. Specifics for species will be given within their caresheet. A hatchling can be housed in a 20-gallon aquarium, whereas a juvenile can be housed in a 55-gallon aquarium. If the enclosure is too large for the hatchling or juvenile tegu this can cause stress.
Substrate:
The recommended substrate is cypress mulch, orchid bark or eucalyptus mulch. The substrate needs to be 6" - 12" deep, as tegus like to burrow.
Lighting:
Ultraviolet light with a full-spectrum of light is recommended. Lights that emit UVB are a must for this species of reptile. Ultraviolet lighting is important in the production of vitamin D3, which is necessary for calcium metabolism. UVB should be use in addition to calcium with D3 and multi-vitamins.
Lighting Cycle:
A cycle of 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness is recommended.
Heating:
Each specific species has their own individual temperature need that will be discussed within their caresheet. An enclosure should be set up in zones. There should be a warn side, cool side and then a basking area. The use of under tank heating (a specific UTH made for reptiles can be used or a heating pad made for humans) is recommended along with the lighting mentioned above. NEVER USE A HEAT ROCK AS IT CAN BURN YOUR TEGU!
Water:
Tegus like to swim, so the use of two separate water bowls is suggested. Make sure one of the bowls is large enough for the Tegu to use as a pool. Change drinking water daily and pool as needed.
Food:
One of the most important things to remember is not to offer food that is larger than the area between the tegus eyes. Tegus are omnivorous as adults. They will eat both meat and vegetables. Hatchlings are carnivores and their diet should consist of crickets, small mealworms, and (mice) pinkies. The juveniles diet consists of (mice) fuzzies, large mealworms, crickets and boiled or scrambled egg (chopped). Adults diet consists of mice, large mealworms, crickets, super worms and boiled or scrambled egg, fruit and vegetables. Remember to dust crickets and worms with vitamin/calcium mixture before feeding to your tegu. See individual caresheet for more specific species food list. Adult Tegus diet will be almost equal parts meat and vegetables. Tegus can become very aggressive while feeding. Hand feeding could be dangerous, as the tegu may not recognize the difference between your hand and the food.
Humidity:
Tegus require high humidity levels of 60%-70% for proper shedding as well as proper health. Misting on a daily basis is required. If you have another way to raise the humidity, that is fine. Remember not to make the substrate tacky with too much moisture, or you may grow molds, which is not healthy for the animals.
Hibernation:
Tegus hibernate up to seven months in the wild. They will also do this in captivity if given the chance. However, tegus do not have to hibernate. If they do not hibernate, they may still slow down on feeding during the normal hibernating season. Tegus will consume great amounts of food in August to prepare to begin hibernating in September. They will hibernate from September to March and begin eating again in April.
Hides:
Tegus require hides at both ends of their enclosures. These can be made out of a half log or another safe structure. They can also benefit from a moist hide.
I stated before, there are/were more errors, yet you put my name back on this mess?
Where exactly are they getting this crap?
the Blue Tegu is believed to be a color phase (morph) of the Argentine Black & White and the Gold Tegu is believed to be a color phase (morph) of the Columbian Tegu.
Who believes this? I do not believe this, I also do not know of any of the other large breeders that do. Where is it said that the Blue tegu is a (MORPH) of the Argentine Black n White? I do not think the Blues are any closer to the Black n Whites than the Reds. It seems to me that word is used too much in this hobby. It can be said of the two different colors found in the Colombian species; I would not call them different morphs.
Tegus will consume great amounts of food in August to prepare to begin hibernating in September.
Here is more, where is this coming from? My tegus start hibernating in August, as well as slow down on feeding due to getting ready to hibernate.
They will hibernate from September to March and begin eating again in April.
Tegus will eat soon after coming out of hibernation, it might be a week, at most two, but it will not be a month.
Tegus require hides at both ends of their enclosures. These can be made out of a half log or another safe structure. They can also benefit from a moist hide.
Again, where did this come from? IMO, the heat (basking light) should be on one end and the hide on the other (no heat needed).
Adult Tegus diet will be almost equal parts meat and vegetables.
Tegu adults eat about a 20% to 80% ratio fruit; I do not think I ever used the word vegetables, however they have been known to eat a few here and there. Colombians do not eat fruit or vegetables.
One of the most important things to remember is not to offer food that is larger than the area between the tegus eyes. Tegus are omnivorous as adults. They will eat both meat and vegetables.
I think someone was reading a bearded dragon care sheet on the first part of this. No food larger then the area between the tegus eyes? Adult tegus can and do eat medium rats; you would go broke feeding mice to adults.
Also, the statement that adult tegus are omnivores, this is not true, the Colombian species are carnivores throughout life.
A hatchling can be housed in a 20-gallon aquarium, whereas a juvenile can be housed in a 55-gallon aquarium. If the enclosure is too large for the hatchling or juvenile tegu this can cause stress.
I also disagree with this statement, if young animals stress so easy, why are they not extinct in the wild?
I have heard the same thing about other species of reptiles, my question is how large in their home in the wild?
These are just a few points as to why you should not edit someone's work, if you would have contacted me and asked me if it was OK to move and use, I would have helped you with it and gave my permission to use it.
As it stands, I do not want my name used on these sites or sheets.
Oh, one more thing, I have never submitted anything to R.I.D.
