Sorry I just read the first part of it where he said he used 3 - 40 hour heat packs.
Again I WAS MISTAKEN.
While Im on again, I am doing a bit of research. Temps for care of emerald tree boas
This is from the care shee located here
http://www.d-g-s.com/daemons/etbcare.htm
"Temperature : Maintenance Cycle : Beginning the 6th day after a feeding, and lasting until the next feeding.
For year round use with all non-breeders, neonate through adult, temperatures should be kept between a Day Time High of 84°F to a Night Time Low of 75°F. Fluctuation, although a natural event, is unnecessary. Keepers may prefer to employ the optimum fixed Maintenance temperature of 82°F inbetween feeding cycles."
And this one
http://www.reptileallsorts.com/emeraldtreeboa-cs.html
"Temperatures:
Now, there will probably be people who will argue with my temperature regimen, but no one will ever be happy and that’s just something we’ll all have to live with. For the most part, I like to keep my temperature steady for my babies, juvies, and non-breeding adults. For these animals I like to keep a nice stable 80F all day long, sometimes with a slight drop at night and a slight raise during the day that happens naturally without any intentional manipulation, it usually never swings more than two or three degrees in any given direction. At these temps the animals remain nice and stable and have no problems whether digesting or shedding. Adults, especially breeders go through a much more complicated scheduling which I don’t want to get into in much detail because of the fact that it is very variable. As a rule, I try to keep adults at 80F during the off season when they are just putting on weight. Towards the end of September, I begin nightly drops into the lower 70's. Never below 70 though. The day time highs reach about 82-83F in order to offset the NTL’s (night time lows). This continues throughout the majority of the breeding season, when actual breeding is observed I often employ the use of rain chambers to increase humidity drastically which seems to put the icing on the cake. Later on, about mid to late March the males and non-gravid females are returned to the regular 80F temperatures. Possibly gravid females are also maintained at an even 80F but are offered a basking site of about 93F which they will often put to good use. After parturition they are returned to normal steady temps until the next season. Now many people will recommend the use of lower temperatures, even going so far as to say that lower temps will correct regurgitation problems. This is true to an extent but care must be taken that an animal with chronic regurgitation is not exposed to sub-optimal temperatures that will further debilitate it. It is my personal belief that an emerald tree boa should not be dropped below 70F, ever. "
And this one here
http://groups.msn.com/HerpetocultureChatGroup/emeraldtreeboas.msnw
"TEMPERATURE & HUMIDITY: Emeralds come from the muggiest climate on earth! I've been there several times and know firsthand. It is hot and sticky all the time, oftentimes even at night. Keep them around 82 degrees day and night for the first three years after birth. Once they're older you can vary temperatures to induce breeding. Although humidity must be kept high for proper shedding and health, airflow must be established to prevent cages from becoming stagnant. Humidity along South American rivers ranges from 85% to 100% at all times. Emeralds have evolved with this requirement. To establish these humidity levels, cages can be misted daily with non-chlorinated, warm water, and large water basins (oftentimes covering entire bottom of cage) will add significantly to cage humidity. All our emeralds have live plants (pothos variety) in their cages to add even more humidity and freshness. "
Now thoose are just pages I found on the web, I tried to go to more distinquised breeders, but thats what I got. Notice they are all saying right around 84. Theese guys were at a minnimum of 88 ambient, and that assumeing none of the delis were anywhere near the heat pack. When I first touched them the animals were very warm (I wish now I had temp gunned the corspse, but I didnt).
As I said I started this thread for others input. It turned into something I wish it hadnt. I wasnt trying to "blackmail" Alfredo, or anything like that. I was hopeing you guys could be a mediator of sorts. Alfredo says I jumped the gun posting, but I feel he jumped the gun also. I didnt intend to hang him out to dry in the manner this has occured, but at this point Im pretty fed up with the whole situation. I have stated my previous experience with Xtreme, and I will be honest that its not just them. Its my experience with alot of wholesalers. I understand the risks of buying imports, and if I didnt I assure you I would have posted about the other shipments prior, but I didnt untill now. I just wanted input on the heat packs, and Ive provided the pictures, and all the info I can. It turned ugly, nothing will ever be solved, and thats that.